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Tang screw"s" & torque

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Frontier's

Frontier's

Buckskins & Black Powder
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Does anyone actually torque down their tang screw?

I did some measurements with my torque wrench and it ended up taking 25 inch lbs " roughly 2ft lbs "
A loose tang screw can really hurt accuracy, so tightening it down consistently certainly could not hurt.

My tang, barrel and trigger are bedded, so I'm not sure how well this would work on bare wood with it being softer material.
1000009885.jpg
 
At the aero-space company that I worked at the standard max torque for a #10 lubed stainless-steel screw was 28 inch/pounds and a #8 lubed was 24 inch/pounds. There was no wood involved. I would think that repeated torquing of that screw would compress the wood and change the overall dimensions of your gun in those areas over time and possibly (?) effect its reliability with interactions with other parts. I don't see any benefits of doing this.:dunno: My two cents worth.:ghostly:
 
Frontier's said:
Does anyone actually torque down their tang screw?

I did some measurements with my torque wrench and it ended up taking 25 inch lbs " roughly 2ft lbs "
A loose tang screw can really hurt accuracy, so tightening it down consistently certainly could not hurt.

My tang, barrel and trigger are bedded, so I'm not sure how well this would work on bare wood with it being softer material.
Click to expand...
I am with Rich Pierce and ZUG.

Larry
 
Guys-
Poor inletting coupled with white knuckle levels of torque can and will destroy accuracy. Glass bed the tang area and torque to a consistent value. Wood can and will compress in the screw hole but torque is torque so slot position can change
 
Frontier's said:
A loose tang screw can really hurt accuracy, so tightening it down consistently certainly could not hurt.

My tang, barrel and trigger are bedded, so I'm not sure how well this would work on bare wood with it being softer material.
Click to expand...
Even with everything bedded, wood under the glass bedding will be compressed and change over time. If you want to make things solid and go to a repeatable torque, pillar bed the tang. Basically a solid piece of metal (steel, aluminum or brass for example), bedded in the stock between the tang and the trigger plate or whatever your tang screw is threaded into, so it’s metal to metal from the tang to the trigger plate when you apply your torque. I’ve done it on my muzzleloaders that use an adjustable long range tang sight. Overkill? Maybe. SOP on modern bolt action things we don’t talk about here.
 
Frontier's said:
View attachment 344018
Click to expand...
Was going to use wood hardener there, around/under the keys, and under the butt plate of a Lyman GPR. And in any thin sections of the barrel channel. Did that to a 75 year old Mossberg .22 and an at the newest 114 year old Davenport 12g. Neither shoot any better, but the factory screws seem to have more bite…
Thinned epoxy, or full strength?
 
SeaBee133 said:
Was going to use wood hardener there, around/under the keys, and under the butt plate of a Lyman GPR. And in any thin sections of the barrel channel. Did that to a 75 year old Mossberg .22 and an at the newest 114 year old Davenport 12g. Neither shoot any better, but the factory screws seem to have more bite…
Thinned epoxy, or full strength?
Click to expand...
Original jb weld. 6 to 12hr set up.
 

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