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whitneyville cylinder face wear
- Thread starter lone pine
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Clearly dragging. Can you see light between cylinder and forcing cone with hammer at rest? Can you feel the dragging during cocking? Loosen the wedge a bit and see if it makes a difference? Someone who knows what they are doing will be along shortly.
yep. went thru all 3 u mention.
lp
lp
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
The machining is rough, that surface would work better if it was smooth and FLAT. Don’t loosen the wedge.
Is the back end of the barrel rough?
Edit: Place a sheet of fine emery cloth or sandpaper on a flat surface and gently smooth the cylinder face. (thanks Phil).
Edit: Place a sheet of fine emery cloth or sandpaper on a flat surface and gently smooth the cylinder face. (thanks Phil).
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It just needs cleaned up on a piece of emery paper on a sheet of glass or in a lathe three jaw with some shims on the jaw ends to not mar the finish. I've done it both ways to clean up the machine marks. It may need the barrel cylinder gap tightened after clean up.
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More likely its got a short Arbor and that needs to be corrected.
hawkeye2 - "Is the back end of the barrel rough?" - yes.
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Possible but an end fit arbor does not stop the front of the cylinder from contacting the barrel and none of my short arbor guns ever scrubbed the cylinder face. Here is my mid 80s version of Pedersoli's model 1860 that has never been arbor end fit , shoots great and is not loosening up course it has been barrel lapped , given a new tool steel home made trigger, my version of a properly fit tool steel wedge and new front blade sight . Never have seen a need to fit the arbor and probably never will unless it develops a need. It's a good mod and easy enough to do if one thinks it is needed .
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ok guys. I have a new cylinder for Whitneyville. but I'm going to shoot with old marred cylinder first before I possibly mess up the new one. just waiting on lube to arrive in mail. I read the post regarding chain fire from ripples versus it jumping from chamber to chamber. seems a little risky to shoot it with all those channels marred. seems like the marring could act as a conduit for flame jumping from unlubed/sealed chambers.
best, and thanks for all the advice from everyone.
lp
best, and thanks for all the advice from everyone.
lp
M. deLand - "It just needs cleaned up on a piece of emery paper on a sheet of glass or in a lath three jaw with some shims on the jaw ends to not mar the finish. I've done it both ways to clean up the machine marks. It may need the barrel cylinder gap tightened after clean up."
I like this idea. going to try it. what grit of emery cloth you suggest?
thx
lp
I like this idea. going to try it. what grit of emery cloth you suggest?
thx
lp
LST-1185
36 Cl.
Most likely a short arbor. I have several Uberti revolvers and all of them I had to correct this. You can do search for " short arbor " for more information on this.
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I like to use 320 on a sheet of plate glass or a diamond file that is 2"x 6" in the lathe.
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
Use a sheet of 320 grit wet/dry paper on a pane of glass. Use plenty of water and move the cylinder in a figure eight over the entire piece of sandpaper. Re-grip the cylinder from time to time to evenly smooth the face of the cylinder. You won’t remove very much metal this way and it doesn’t take very long to do.
As M. De Land has said.
hawkeye2 - "Is the back end of the barrel rough?"
what does this indicate please?
ty
lp
what does this indicate please?
ty
lp
Here's the cyl of one of my 1860's after near 2,000 rounds . . . the minimum pressure being 21,000 psi and max (so far) 23,000 psi.
Hmmmm. You made a pretty big deal about doing the Walker though. So, after "hanging your hat" on evidence with originals, you've decided "correct" setup really isn't necessary . . .
So why did you correct the Walker?
Mike
Hmmmm. You made a pretty big deal about doing the Walker though. So, after "hanging your hat" on evidence with originals, you've decided "correct" setup really isn't necessary . . .
So why did you correct the Walker?
Mike
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Here's an Uberti Whitneville after the Goon fixes it!
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I decided the Walker would be heavily loaded and would probably " need" the modification with the factory wedge it came with. Same reason I put the action shield on it after dropping a spent cap down the hammer mortise. Never had a cap drop into the action of any of my other revolvers hence not needed.
Like I said, end fitting is a good mod and easy enough to do should I feel the need ! It's just not always a necessity in every model for accuracy or longevity in my opinion.
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