Know one can get away with dropping the hammer on a cone. But if it is an expensive weapon....
while that is indeed the ideal, most of the revolvers folks have do not meet the expectationOn a properly set up revolver the hammer never touches the nipple: there is just enough clearance to detonate the cap.
It's simple to do: you file each cone one at a time to achieve proper clearance.while that is indeed the ideal, most of the revolvers folks have do not meet the expectation
To the question at hand....I just use percussion caps. Get a fun bang and you are not messing up your nipples. (when we were kids my dad used to play quickdraw with me and my brother using his revolvers loaded with just percussion caps, fun times, probably not the dad of the year but we were having a blast)
I do basically the same thing but use a foam ear plug cut in half, works for two or three cylinder rotations, falls out and I put it back in, easy peesyA simple solution is to cut a piece of thin leather and lay it in the channel for the hammer, easy to put in and easy to get out.
This is the solution I know of, and if my memory can be trusted (but getting iffy these days), I think it's posted somewhere around here.A simple solution is to cut a piece of thin leather and lay it in the channel for the hammer, easy to put in and easy to get out.
You don't put it on the nipples, you put it in the curved channel where the hammer goes......lower than the nipples.I tried using leather and it was cutting a plug and clogging the nipples.
Went with uncharged tap caps and they work great.
You can really see exactly how hard and how flush the hammer strike is works on rifles as well.
That's what I use. And by the way, they sell them already cut to fit. I think they are called "cap keepers" they might work.Get a length of clear vinyl tubing (like that used in aquarium pumps) that friction fits over the nipple and cut it just longer than the surface of the nipple to cushion the blow from the hammer..
I have also heard that in times of need, this setup can be tweaked to be used to hold the ignition device of the self-contained ammo of unmentionables when caps are not available.
True, but most common revolvers aren't that finely "tuned"; a guy on here is making computer-printed percussion caps that he puts the fulminate in; maybe he should sell them as "bumpers" for dry fire use.On a properly set up revolver the hammer never touches the nipple: there is just enough clearance to detonate the cap.
This is what I have developed for dry firing percussion revolvers and it works very well. It is a thin enough cushion to alloy a complete cycling without hammer/nipple contact , stays put on it's own and is easily removed with tweezers. It is a 1/8th inch thick neoprene glass setting block one can pick up at any glass shop. Fit a small rectangle of it to the hammer mortise in the frame then sand down the thickness until the revolver will cycle fully yet not contact the nipple .Know one can get away with dropping the hammer on a cone. But if it is an expensive weapon....
They are good for one strike on the second they cut a plug as well.True, but most common revolvers aren't that finely "tuned"; a guy on here is making computer-printed percussion caps that he puts the fulminate in; maybe he should sell them as "bumpers" for dry fire use.
Yes, there is a possibility of work hardening the hammer until it breaks .Is there any reason you can't just remove the Cones and dry fire it that way?
Yes, there is a possibility of work hardening the hammer until it breaks .
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