Safely firing an antique gun

So I picked up an antique gun on gunbroker a few months back and still haven’t gotten around to shooting it.

I can’t help but wonder how or where to start when it comes to starting to dump powder down the barrel of a gun from the 1800’s, and wanting to be safe about it.

The seller said they had loaded it up to 90gr of 2f. Which I don’t doubt…BUT I’m not willing to bet my life on it.

Just wondering if anyone has some advice about how to go about starting to shoot this gun, but with some sense and safety in mind.

You'd have to give a lot more information before anyone could begin to answer this. Type of gun. Rifle or smoothbore? Caliber? Flintlock or percussion? Pictures would be good, and descriptions of the condition of the gun, the inside of the bore, condition of the nipple (if it's percussion), and things like that. And of course the first thing to do is make sure the ramrod reaches to the breech/touch hole/nipple to confirm that there's not an old charge in it.

dtruex said:

You'd have to give a lot more information before anyone could begin to answer this. Type of gun. Rifle or smoothbore? Caliber? Flintlock or percussion? Pictures would be good, and descriptions of the condition of the gun, the inside of the bore, condition of the nipple (if it's percussion), and things like that. And of course the first thing to do is make sure the ramrod reaches to the breech/touch hole/nipple to confirm that there's not an old charge in it.

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These are some of the only photos I have at the moment. I don’t have any photos down the bore but I’ll get some. It’s a Henry Nock 16g. I’m whatever the opposite of an expert is, but from what I can tell it seems to be in quite good condition…but again, what do I really know.

When I drop the ramrod down the barrel it stops at this arrow…

Here's what I do:
-make sure it's not loaded
-clean it well
-look for structural issues on the outside, including nipple, vent hole lock etc
-run a bore scope down the barrel, inspect barrel and powder chamber
-fire a cap/spark the pan
-fire light loads first, pulling trigger with a string from a safe distance: 10gr, 20 gr, 30gr, 40 gr. Swab barrel and check for issues after each shot
-full powder charge
-projectile with half charge, then again with full charge
-clean up and check for issues again

Keyhole said:

Here's what I do:
-make sure it's not loaded
-clean it well
-look for structural issues on the outside, including nipple, vent hole lock etc
-run a bore scope down the barrel, inspect barrel and powder chamber
-fire a cap/spark the pan
-fire light loads first, pulling trigger with a string from a safe distance: 10gr, 20 gr, 30gr, 40 gr. Swab barrel and check for issues after each shot
-full powder charge
-projectile with half charge, then again with full charge
-clean up and check for issues again

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Any tips on the “make sure it’s not loaded” part? I can’t seem to figure out how to get a visual on the full length of the inside of the barrel. I tried getting a lit photo but it’s coming up very short.

Looks like it’s done a fair bit of work and a new nipples woUld be an investment
, note the burning of the wood in rear of the nipple, also if you fit a nnew nipple make sure it is internally coned, don’t use a flat ended nipple unless there is a seat for it as on most revolvers.

Dexis said:

These are some of the only photos I have at the moment. I don’t have any photos down the bore but I’ll get some. It’s a Henry Nock 16g. I’m whatever the opposite of an expert is, but from what I can tell it seems to be in quite good condition…but again, what do I really know.

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Good maker nice twist barrel looks sound as bell' looks like nicely altered from flint by the maker or as good I would have no worries. But its in your hands .Rudyard

Dexis said:

Any tips on the “make sure it’s not loaded” part? I can’t seem to figure out how to get a visual on the full length of the inside of the barrel. I tried getting a lit photo but it’s coming up very short.

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Its got Nocks patent breach so the rod wont go down as if it where a common plug .Re nipple I dont alter them if sound as the threads are not the usual modern & can do more harm than good though my learned friend thinks opposite . Regards Rudyard

You'll need to push a piece of 1/8th diameter welding rod, or similar, so that it goes clear ALL the way down to the nipple. Rudyard mentioned that Nock's guns usually had a patent breech - this means that the diameter of the bore is reduced in the breeching to enable higher pressures to be generated.

Because of this, a regular diameter rod might not go all the way down the the breech plug - the closing part of the barrel and the 'blunt end'.

double post.

Get a colonoscopy camera that you can use with your I phone and check down inside the breech and all along the inside of the barrel. The barrel may look ok on the outside , but inside may be a different story.

Dexis said:

Any tips on the “make sure it’s not loaded” part? I can’t seem to figure out how to get a visual on the full length of the inside of the barrel. I tried getting a lit photo but it’s coming up very short.

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I’ve invested in a nice bore scope but I got started with a much more affordable model from amazon that connects to my iphone.

Sam squanch said:

Get a colonoscopy camera that you can use with your I phone and check down inside the breech and all along the inside of the barrel. The barrel may look ok on the outside , but inside may be a different story.

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Do you mean an endoscope, or as you say, a colostomy camera ? I use to repair those scopes at a price of about $5000.00 apiece,I believe it would be quite an expense to obtain one now. To buy one new is very pricey, I would hesitate to say how much, for I have been out of the business for over seven years.

can you blow through the barrel ??

Dexis said:

When I drop the ramrod down the barrel it stops at this arrow…
View attachment 350740

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If the ramrod stops where you show I think it may be loaded, precede with caution and look to draw the load out.

Zapadach said:

Do you mean an endoscope, or as you say, a colostomy camera ? I use to repair those scopes at a price of about $5000.00 apiece,I believe it would be quite an expense to obtain one now. To buy one new is very pricey, I would hesitate to say how much, for I have been out of the business for over seven years.

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You can get them very inexpensively now - The one I have i believe was under $20 from Amazon and works great for bore inspection purposes

Dexis said:

When I drop the ramrod down the barrel it stops at this arrow…
View attachment 350740

Click to expand...

I disagree with the comment about it appearing to be loaded with the rod stopping at that point, thats the junction of the barrel and breech plug, I would expect it to stop farther up the barrel to account for the threads of the plug going into the barrel.

Still, best to get a scope and have a look.

Some use a bright steel ball bearing to reflect light back up the barrel of a light shined into the muzzle, some use a small light dropped down the bore, neither of which shows the extreme rear of the bore, but can indicate the general condition of the bore. The inexpensive endoscopes are nice to have, though I bought one and only found out later it requires a wifi connection to work, which reduces it usefulness to me tremendously, not to mentioned I couldnt get it to work at all on 2 of my devices. If possible I suggest one that does not require wifi to work, meaning it can go to the range or in your field gear or auto tools and be used anywhere at any time.

As an example, I bought a cheap one at walmart once to look into the cylinder of a motorcycle I was looking at, no wifi, it was stand alone with its own screen. Far more useful, I just didnt have it at the time I needed it (halfway across the country) so bought the useless one that worked with a phone and wifi.

The amazon one i have is usb and plugs into my laptop - works great.

Nice original
Photo of the breech indicates the nipple has been replaced but make sure that threads are in good shape & very snug before firing.
If your unsure of bore & breech condition, try to locate an antique arms gunsmith in your area to check out the bore.
Don't let shallow pitting discourage you, some of the guns i've owned with extensive pitting throughout produced excellent
accuracy after a good scrubbing with different grades of 3M cloth on a tight fitting jag.

Many original firearms have nipples with coned bases, they often erode & become unsafe.
Having shot mostly original muzzleloading firearms for 60 some years in competition I always replace the nipples before firing
& replace with Treso nipples as their small base flash holes produce a much hotter & faster ignition.
Treso makes nipples to fit many original firearms but in some cases will need to drill & tap to get a safe & secure thread fit.
Just this members opinion.
Enjoy !
Relic shooter