hi all, was trying to find Dave Persons post on strengthening thin forearms with pro bed 2000. i have a kibler fowler i want to do this to. does anyone remember what he thinned it with. thanks in advance. mike
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forearm strengthening pro bed 2000
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Original jb weld works awesome
I havn't used Probed 2000, but I have used Acra-glass to glass bed some BBLs. It works really good, and is very strong, and lubricant resistant. Oil, and cleaners don't touch it.
I would think if PRO-BED 2000 is fiberglass that it would be a good BBL base.
Dave
I would think if PRO-BED 2000 is fiberglass that it would be a good BBL base.
Dave
This may be what you are looking for.
Post in thread 'Making a Pattern 1756 Long Land British Musket'
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...-long-land-british-musket.173129/post-2502658
I tried similar and find the original AcraGlas works for this type of application. Found most other epoxies to be too thick for what I was trying to accomplish.
You could also contact @dave_person directly.
thanks sdsmlf, thats what i was looking for. i thought he used probed. thanks again. mike
is there any reason that regular epoxy resin could not be used? is acraglas something special??
I use nothing but original jb weld. Acraglass is too expensive, dries out before you can fully use it and not as good as jb weld. Had too many problems with it not fully curing.
Devcon I believe it's called is good, but expensive.
hi frontiers, not looking to bed the barrel , a very thin coat of thinned epoxy is brushed on to soak into to the wood to reinforce it.
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The main claim to fame of Acraglas is that there is no shrinkage, probably not a big deal for most BP applications but for bedding those modern style tack drivers it is the best.
Unfortunately, it has a shelf life so don't buy a bunch and plan to use it over several years.
Unfortunately, it has a shelf life so don't buy a bunch and plan to use it over several years.
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I use regular slow set epoxy resin dyed to a brownish color. Just brush a thin coat, like a heavy varnish, then clamp in the barrel til set. A couple heavy coats of paste wax on the barrel and it will drop right out after.
BUT, I do this early in the build process, right after I get the barrel inlet. Before I inlet the lock, no barrel lugs installed, no shaping of forearm done.
With a Kibler that is so close to finish, I’d be very concerned about being able to remove the barrel after the epoxy, it will flow everywhere, plus you’d have to be extremely careful not to get any on the outer fore stock where it would ruin staining and finishing.
BUT, I do this early in the build process, right after I get the barrel inlet. Before I inlet the lock, no barrel lugs installed, no shaping of forearm done.
With a Kibler that is so close to finish, I’d be very concerned about being able to remove the barrel after the epoxy, it will flow everywhere, plus you’d have to be extremely careful not to get any on the outer fore stock where it would ruin staining and finishing.
longcruise
70 Cal.
Self bowyer's use a sealant called "Massie finish". So named because it was popularized by a fellow named Massie.
It's made by mixing Dev Con slow cure 2 ton epoxy with acetone or denatured alcohol. It's a good sealant but I'm not sure about strengthening.
I bedded a barrel in a finished stock once when I was young and dumb. Won't do that a.gain the forearm broke between the entry and middle pipe. I nearly cried as I was 3 days from taking it turkey hunting. Wife and I glued it back together and got a really nice job but I wouldn't do it again just for the practice. It went a long turkey hunting that weekend and on Wednesday it killed a nice gobbler. I guess sometimes God likes us.
My grandfathers original 36 cal Ohio Vincent flintlock had some type of woven cloth/hemp? embedded in what appeared to be hot hoof glue to stabilize/strengthen the forearm. I only got to see it once in the '50s when he had the barrel out of the stock.
