2024/2025 Squirrel Hunting Thread...........

snakebit said:

Short answer? Burn plenty O'smoke, feast on fish, squirrel, hogs and venison. More time to be feral. What more is there? Don't say golf!

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snakebit said:

... an imminent neck/spine surgery is in my pipeline. Not sure what the recovery time will be...

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Gum Slough Muzzleloader said:

I do go to the Gulf, but I don't play Golf never have never will.

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ETipp said:

10, I recommend cleaning patches be no larger than 1" square unless they are made from thin material. I cut my own from old Tee shirts and obviously the thicknesses can vary. Regardless, you will be doing yourself a favor by not going much larger than 1" square. Certainly 1.25" square maximum.

To expound on a few things already mentioned by others, your Crockett will most likely do very well with 20.0 grains of 3F. I do not recommend trying 2F. My personal favorite is Swiss as it has proven to foul less.

As others have tried, a .015 shooting patch lubed with TOTW Mink Oil will work and makes the loading process easier. I was having eye issues but to the best of my testing, .018" ticking proved to be a bit more accurate. When the patches are cut to the optimum size, I have found that when lubed with TOTW Mink Oil, that I can, and sometimes do, load as much as 4 times and was still not difficult to seat the ball with .018", although there is no doubt that overall, .015" is easier to load.

Personally, I purchase my ticking from October Country now. The last batch I ordered is very tight-weaved. I order it in the bulk and cut patches from that on a boring day.

I do use .310 swaged RB produced by Hornady.

In terms of hunting or test shooting, I much prefer to run a damp cleaning patch with Windex on it between shots, followed by one or two dry patches. This helps facilitate the reloading process as well as perhaps accuracy. However, I have found that one of the best attributes of doing so is the fact that my Crockett's are not very dirty at the end of the day. Very little crud comes out during the cleaning process. l'm fairly certain the Swiss powder helps with this. I have shot as many as 20 times one day while testing and by running moist cleaning patches down the bore after each shot, the ML was still not very dirty at the end of the day. In the woods while squirrel hunting (which is the real meat and taters) I will sometimes go as much as 3 shots without swabbing, depending on the situation at the time. If no more squirrels are seen, then the bore gets swabbed out. I have screwed myself several times by trying to swab the bore after I shot a squirrel, only to find one or two more that presented me with perfect, close shots, yet there I was with a half cleaned rifle.

One other thing is, I keep the jag on the end of the ramrod. Yes, it can be a bit of a pain but not nearly as much as having to fiddle around with trying to find the jag (or dropping it) while out in the woods. Due to the smaller diameter barrel, as well as the jag being in the way, I find it easier to remove the ramrod before I even begin to reload.

In addition, and you may already be aware of this, is a loading block really pays off big time during a squirrel hunt. Faster, easier, and less movement. Much easier to load up the block while at home sitting at a table than to try to fiddle with those small .310 RB out in the woods. This is painfully apparent with cold and/or numb fingers. I know carry 2 loaded up loading blocks on each hunt.

Coning the barrel will help tremendously with a Crockett.

Last but certainly not least, you will be well served by getting rid of the very poor excuse for a ramrod that comes with the Crockett rifles. Wooden blanks and fittings can be had from TOTW. I sanded mine down to where it is a little snug going down the barrel. A brass ramrod might prove to be better yet. I have one for each Crockett and they can really help with a load that is not playing nice.

Good luck and please let us know how it goes.

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ETipp said:

10, I recommend cleaning patches be no larger than 1" square unless they are made from thin material. I cut my own from old Tee shirts and obviously the thicknesses can vary. Regardless, you will be doing yourself a favor by not going much larger than 1" square. Certainly 1.25" square maximum.

To expound on a few things already mentioned by others, your Crockett will most likely do very well with 20.0 grains of 3F. I do not recommend trying 2F. My personal favorite is Swiss as it has proven to foul less.

As others have tried, a .015 shooting patch lubed with TOTW Mink Oil will work and makes the loading process easier. I was having eye issues but to the best of my testing, .018" ticking proved to be a bit more accurate. When the patches are cut to the optimum size, I have found that when lubed with TOTW Mink Oil, that I can, and sometimes do, load as much as 4 times and was still not difficult to seat the ball with .018", although there is no doubt that overall, .015" is easier to load.

Personally, I purchase my ticking from October Country now. The last batch I ordered is very tight-weaved. I order it in the bulk and cut patches from that on a boring day.

I do use .310 swaged RB produced by Hornady.

In terms of hunting or test shooting, I much prefer to run a damp cleaning patch with Windex on it between shots, followed by one or two dry patches. This helps facilitate the reloading process as well as perhaps accuracy. However, I have found that one of the best attributes of doing so is the fact that my Crockett's are not very dirty at the end of the day. Very little crud comes out during the cleaning process. l'm fairly certain the Swiss powder helps with this. I have shot as many as 20 times one day while testing and by running moist cleaning patches down the bore after each shot, the ML was still not very dirty at the end of the day. In the woods while squirrel hunting (which is the real meat and taters) I will sometimes go as much as 3 shots without swabbing, depending on the situation at the time. If no more squirrels are seen, then the bore gets swabbed out. I have screwed myself several times by trying to swab the bore after I shot a squirrel, only to find one or two more that presented me with perfect, close shots, yet there I was with a half cleaned rifle.

One other thing is, I keep the jag on the end of the ramrod. Yes, it can be a bit of a pain but not nearly as much as having to fiddle around with trying to find the jag (or dropping it) while out in the woods. Due to the smaller diameter barrel, as well as the jag being in the way, I find it easier to remove the ramrod before I even begin to reload.

In addition, and you may already be aware of this, is a loading block really pays off big time during a squirrel hunt. Faster, easier, and less movement. Much easier to load up the block while at home sitting at a table than to try to fiddle with those small .310 RB out in the woods. This is painfully apparent with cold and/or numb fingers. I know carry 2 loaded up loading blocks on each hunt.

Coning the barrel will help tremendously with a Crockett.

Last but certainly not least, you will be well served by getting rid of the very poor excuse for a ramrod that comes with the Crockett rifles. Wooden blanks and fittings can be had from TOTW. I sanded mine down to where it is a little snug going down the barrel. A brass ramrod might prove to be better yet. I have one for each Crockett and they can really help with a load that is not playing nice.

Good luck and please let us know how it goes.

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snakebit said:

Well fellas, after a video Dr. Appointment just a bit ago, an imminent neck/spine surgery is in my pipeline. Not sure what the recovery time will be, but after we lay my MIL to rest I'm going to be a hunting fool while I can. Going to hopefully hold it off until after my annual deer camp trip. I still want to shoot a squirrel or 10 with that 36 Flinter. I plan on taking a page from Ed's playbook, take it as at comes, but keep fighting to do the things I enjoy. Probably my own fault it's gotten this bad, but by God was it fun getting there!

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ETipp said:

Big foot carrying a GPR!

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Staredge said:

Love seeing all the Crocketts out there. Traded a Ruger Single Six to get mine years ago, and while I’ve regularly missed that pistol I’ve seldom thought it a mistake. Sadly, having pulled mine out recently to start hunting again I find that I can’t see the sights. Need to polish up the brass a little…..may help some.

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Gum Slough Muzzleloader said:

Why are all the pictures and footage of Big Foot blurry and out of focus?

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Gum Slough Muzzleloader said:

Why are all the pictures and footage of Big Foot blurry and out of focus?

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snakebit said:

Well fellas, after a video Dr. Appointment just a bit ago, an imminent neck/spine surgery is in my pipeline. Not sure what the recovery time will be, but after we lay my MIL to rest I'm going to be a hunting fool while I can. Going to hopefully hold it off until after my annual deer camp trip. I still want to shoot a squirrel or 10 with that 36 Flinter. I plan on taking a page from Ed's playbook, take it as at comes, but keep fighting to do the things I enjoy. Probably my own fault it's gotten this bad, but by God was it fun getting there!

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longcruise said:

I do the same but I size the rod so that the jag is even with the muzzle. I sized one the other day for my tc. This one is a brass rod. That way the rod stays on board for the loading procedure and is only pulled to seat the ball. My purpose was to make use of a loading block easier.

View attachment 356805

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10 spot said:

Hello, ETipp, when you say your .018 tick patch is cut to optimum size, what diameter are you referring
Too, pre cut 30 cal to 39 are 7/8 in
Is that a good diameter? Just wondering, my mind is running away
From me, with questions,

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10 spot said:

And the
TOW MINK OIL PATCH LUBE, DO YOU PREFER TO THUMB AND FINGER, RUB IN OR DO YA MELT
AND DIP???

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10 spot said:

Hello, ETipp, when you say your .018 tick patch is cut to optimum size, what diameter are you referring
Too, pre cut 30 cal to 39 are 7/8 in
Is that a good diameter? Just wondering, my mind is running away
From me, with questions, And the
TOW MINK OIL PATCH LUBE, DO YOU PREFER TO THUMB AND FINGER, RUB IN OR DO YA MELT
AND DIP??? I have cut down
.018 ticking patches from October
Country. With a nickel for a pattern.
The October co. Is a tight weave ticking. So, what cha think??

Click to expand...

10 spot said:

I have cut down
.018 ticking patches from October
Country. With a nickel for a pattern.
The October co. Is a tight weave ticking. So, what cha think??

Click to expand...

10 spot said:

Hello, ETipp, when you say your .018 tick patch is cut to optimum size, what diameter are you referring
Too, pre cut 30 cal to 39 are 7/8 in
Is that a good diameter? Just wondering, my mind is running away
From me, with questions, And the
TOW MINK OIL PATCH LUBE, DO YOU PREFER TO THUMB AND FINGER, RUB IN OR DO YA MELT
AND DIP??? I have cut down
.018 ticking patches from October
Country. With a nickel for a pattern.
The October co. Is a tight weave ticking. So, what cha think??

Click to expand...

Duk said:

I took a 3/4 inch hole saw ground the teeth off and sharpened it with a dremel stick it in a cordless drill, you can fold the ticking over several times. It don't take long and you got a bunch.

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ETipp said:

Ha ha. My-Ex wife didn't want me to go hunting but wanted me to bring home deer meat every year. Thus my Ex-wife. I never was one to bring home roadkill.

In terms of a wife not understanding the prep issue, I found a way to get around that one. Its called "over-educate them". Its an easy process actually. All that is required is every time you get in close proximity of her, start throwing out some rapid-fire technical information. You know, patch thicknesses, different patch materials, the history of black powder, the importance of proper patch lube, FPS of projectile when compared to the ballistic coefficient, wind drift formulas, pure lead as opposed to impurities in the lead, round ball V.s. conical at extended distances, the necessity of the proper size cleaning jag, stopping power of certain calibers, charges of powder that are weighed as opposed to volume, things like that. Now remember this one small, but very important detail. Whenever she cannot take any more of the quality, but free, education, and decides to walk away from the conversation, that's when it's time to follow her around and keep at it for a while, even if it means turning up the volume and intensity a little.

After one or two doses of that, I guarantee she will no longer be interested in all the prep us guys go through. Works like a charm.

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ETipp said:

Tom, I am sorry to hear about that. Sounds like you've got it planned out right. You have that fighting spirit so my guess is you will be back up and running again in short order.

Neck surgery is no fun but the PT helps. My first neck surgery wasn't as bad as my last one three years ago. It didn't take all that long before I was doing good. Maybe 3 months or so. The first one was only 2 discs where as the last one was all of them with the exception of the top and bottom discs. PT is crucial after neck surgery. The good part is, after a month or so, you can do most of it at home if you make it clear that you are not interested in driving to town a couple times a week. There's only about 3 basic exercises/stretches that are most important after a month or so. I still do a couple of them a couple of times a week whenever my neck tells me to do so.

We all will be pulling for for ole pal. In the meantime, get out there and hunt as much as you can.

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