Repair or replace
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Sorry this happened. Makes ya sick! Above advice is very good, regarding threaded rod, epoxy. It’s good to stain the broken surfaces very lightly with diluted stain because it sucks it up like crazy. Let that dry at least 24 hours before fixing the break. I’d do a dry run and make sure you can get the threaded rod in AND align and clamp the broken edges well. Then add the epoxy to the equation. You only get one shot at it. I put scotch tape on the stock in the area being worked on to within 1/16” of the break. Then any dripped epoxy zips right off. In addition to clamping I wrap the whole thing with slit strips of bicycle inner tubes stretched tightly. Leave at least 12 hours to cure before unclamping and cleaning things up. Best of luck!
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The epoxy and threaded rod is a very good solution however if you have a problem with drilling a relatively long hole then after you glue the break drill from under the trigger guard and fit, say three, hardwood dowels [being very careful not to drill the holes out the top
Don’t know where it came from but no stock maker worth his salt would layout across the grain like that, unless it was an outstanding piece of figured wood,, and then he’d reinforce it before sale and tell the prospective buyer.
Don’t know where it came from but no stock maker worth his salt would layout across the grain like that, unless it was an outstanding piece of figured wood,, and then he’d reinforce it before sale and tell the prospective buyer.
The more I look at it the better your proposal looks. The break is really far from the breech and aligning, clamping tight, and drilling through that slanted break could be iffy for me. Another variation similar to your dowel suggestion is to inlet and glue in a fat straight grained hardwood slab up from the underside of the wrist to within half an inch of the top of the wrist. Success depends on a great glue job at the break.The epoxy and threaded rod is a very good solution however if you have a problem with drilling a relatively long hole then after you glue the break drill from under the trigger guard and fit, say three, hardwood dowels [being very careful not to drill the holes out the top
Don’t know where it came from but no stock maker worth his salt would layout across the grain like that, unless it was an outstanding piece of figured wood,, and then he’d reinforce it before sale and tell the prospective buyer.
carved woodsrunner $800.00 and up
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Oh ! Repair it bud ! Its not difficult ... That thing is beautiful ! Ive done it many times to guns with similar tragic stories . If your unsure how to do it or anything like that PM me ... You can call me we'll chat about it . When its fixed youll have to.point it out to folks when your telling the story about the break ... Youll hardly see it if you do at all ... If you havent already ...disconnect that trigger guard from the broken off piece ...remove trigger guard from top piece too. ...keep them separated . Recently fixed one for a fellow in Missouri ... He didnt and caused damage to wood and destroyed the trigger guard
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Smart ...thats what I do too . Makes it very strong and the trigger guard hides everything ... Ive drive pins vertical , 90 degrees to the grain , up ....this is so no recoil can separate the pieces again ...ive cut a long groove and inlaid a steel rod in there ... this all depends on the direction of the grain and the best , strongest way the pin or pins need to go . Put it back together with slow set epoxy first , let it cure then go about with pinning it or what ever else you are going to do . Picture ...one I recently fixed for a young man in Missouri .....
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That’s areall good way to do a very strong repair, just remember that the more traditional the glue the closer the strengthening piece must fit. Epoxy takes care of gaps
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Seems a clean break. Should be an easy fix. Threaded rod and wood glue, like Rich said, stain, do a mock up first. Titebond 3 is what I’d use. Make sure to wipe off whatever oozes out with a wet rag.
Unless there are chips, it should be invisible.
Unless there are chips, it should be invisible.
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here is a picture of the breaks on my Mortimer. don't have any after pictures handy. one thing, I did lose the wrist checkering.
basic line of the rod. align and glue the break first or you run the risk of stuff misaligning
basic line of the rod. align and glue the break first or you run the risk of stuff misaligning
Tape is a great tip, thanks!
My vote would be fix it. Pins, glue, metal wrist wrap. It will look very nice!!
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Who ever made the stock should have noticed the grain was wrong for a rifle stock?
I agree with all of the threaded rod fixes except that i use a tap and tap the hole done quite a few before my eye surgery now training the youngest son to do welding and machine work
flatcreek
40 Cal
If that's a Kibler maybe you should contact him, I've heard nothing but good things about there customer support and he may wish to help.
Absolutely fixable
Like others have mentioned, I would repair it. But I would use Brownnells Acraglas and an all thread rod. Here are some pictures of a musket that had a wrist broken, missing a few bits and pieces. It took multiple glue sessions and new pieces of walnut to replace the one’s missing. That’s the nice thing about Acraglas, because it sticks to itself.
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I had a break just like that on one of my rifles, epoxied it and also used a long rod that I drilled from the location of the trigger guard, after sanding and finishing it could hardly be seen. Try doing that, you might surprise yourself!
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