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If it were mine, I would use a good industrial strength cyanoacrylate adhesive like Loctite 4471. You may even want to reach out to Loctite directly to get their recommendation for the best cyanoacrylate adhesive for that particular application. I once had a wood and fiberglass 50lb longbow that had a crack running lengthwise through the grip and successfully repaired it with this. As far as the suggestions for the addition of a rod, that would surely make it strong, but I do not see how you would ever be able to get a good alignment between the two parts.

Loctite 158530 Clear Prism 4471 Cyanoacrylate Adhesive​

 
flatcreek said:
If that's a Kibler maybe you should contact him, I've heard nothing but good things about there customer support and he may wish to help.
Click to expand...
Yeah, a woodsrunner, I've seen how helpful they've been but I dropped it out of a treestand, I gotta own it. Was hoping for a better outcome when I got down to fetch it but could understand the break.
 
Dave Marsh said:
Must have made you sick when you got out of the tree and saw the break. Can't imagine that. Personally, I would talk to Jim and get a new stock. Is it the CNC carved stock? Good luck.
Click to expand...
Yeah, wasn't happy about it but understood. If I fell 16' out of the treestand, I'm sure I wouldn't have fared any better. Guess the part that added insult to injury was I could have avoided the whole thing, passed on a button buck at 30yds on walk in, LOL.
 
rich pierce said:
The more I look at it the better your proposal looks. The break is really far from the breech and aligning, clamping tight, and drilling through that slanted break could be iffy for me. Another variation similar to your dowel suggestion is to inlet and glue in a fat straight grained hardwood slab up from the underside of the wrist to within half an inch of the top of the wrist. Success depends on a great glue job at the break.
Click to expand...
This is basically how I ended up repairing the stock on my Colonial. I glued the stock back together, slotted it from the underside from the front of the lock inlet to roughly the nose of the comb, then glued in a piece of hard maple. It was a pain to have to re-inlet everything, but it won't break again.
 
Woodwright said:
If it were mine, I would use a good industrial strength cyanoacrylate adhesive like Loctite 4471. You may even want to reach out to Loctite directly to get their recommendation for the best cyanoacrylate adhesive for that particular application. I once had a wood and fiberglass 50lb longbow that had a crack running lengthwise through the grip and successfully repaired it with this. As far as the suggestions for the addition of a rod, that would surely make it strong, but I do not see how you would ever be able to get a good alignment between the two parts.

Loctite 158530 Clear Prism 4471 Cyanoacrylate Adhesive​

Click to expand...
The alignment is not a issue if you glue it back first then drill after it dry's and put the dowel or rod in last for added strength
 
Thingamajiggy said:
Yeah, a woodsrunner, I've seen how helpful they've been but I dropped it out of a treestand, I gotta own it. Was hoping for a better outcome when I got down to fetch it but could understand the break.
Click to expand...
Personally I would of never used wood with that grain direction in a gunstock or would of oriented it differently
 
Thingamajiggy said:
First day out with gun and dropped it out of a treestand. Wrist broke (see pic), I think I can repair it as far as ability but not sure it i should or just order a new stock. Wood grain (split with grain) View attachment 357888has me a little worried with repair, thoughts?
Click to expand...


Perfect candidate for some TightBond lll and some surgical tubing, just keep it clean.
 
sturmkatze said:
Why not ask @James Kibler
Click to expand...
I hear the customer service is stellar and I've seen him extend help here. I also understand the grain in the wrist area is not optimal. If I had it leaning against a wall and it fell over and broke, that's one thing but it fell 16ft from a treestand, hitting a couple rungs on the way down. I'm gonna own it, the issue was mine in this case.
 
Here is a William Moore 11 gauge that was broken through the wrist much like yours and was fixed by someone that knew what they were doing (not me).

Don't give up hope on a fix, if you don't think you can do it find someone who can.

W Moore2.jpg




W Moore1.jpg
 
French Colonial said:
Here is a William Moore 11 gauge that was broken through the wrist much like yours and was fixed by someone that knew what they were doing (not me).

Don't give up hope on a fix, if you don't think you can do it find someone who can.

View attachment 358217



View attachment 358218
Click to expand...

I’d get a new stock, sell the broken one, you’ll get something for it.

Or use the broken one to practice on.
 
I guess since it is a Kibler a new stock is an option, when you are dealing with older guns like the William Moore pictured above a new stock is not practical.

Could it be done, yes, but not at anything like a reasonable cost, much more than the worth of the gun, or by anything but a small handful of people.
 
I once owned a very expensive English sidelock hammer gun. It had a barely visible hairline crack on the bottom of the wrist. I investigated getting it repaired and found a guy at the Tulsa gunshow that specialized in such repairs on high end sidelocks. He had several examples that looked pristine. His fees were not cheap but a bargain compared to replacement in kind. I eventually gave up and offered it for sale, disclosing that the buttstock was cracked. A a savvy buyer pulled the locks to inspect and discovered that repairs had already been made, explaining why I got away with shooting it for several years. I don't know how the repair was made as the gun was not returned, only a sizeable check to my liking. The point of all this blather is the repair guy showed me how he often used woodworking biscuits to make joinery on a complete break. Biscuits and their machined cutouts disappear in the finished stock without any external holes, a good option if you can't drill under a trigger plate or inside a wrist. That 130 year old H&H hammergun was whispy thin in the lock and wrist area.
 
Woodwright said:
If it were mine, I would use a good industrial strength cyanoacrylate adhesive like Loctite 4471. You may even want to reach out to Loctite directly to get their recommendation for the best cyanoacrylate adhesive for that particular application. I once had a wood and fiberglass 50lb longbow that had a crack running lengthwise through the grip and successfully repaired it with this. As far as the suggestions for the addition of a rod, that would surely make it strong, but I do not see how you would ever be able to get a good alignment between the two parts.

Loctite 158530 Clear Prism 4471 Cyanoacrylate Adhesive​

Click to expand...
You glue it first then add the rod
 
Thingamajiggy said:
I hear the customer service is stellar and I've seen him extend help here. I also understand the grain in the wrist area is not optimal. If I had it leaning against a wall and it fell over and broke, that's one thing but it fell 16ft from a treestand, hitting a couple rungs on the way down. I'm gonna own it, the issue was mine in this case.
Click to expand...
I said ask his opinion and advice — not to give you one for free. He’sa great gunsmith too.
 
There are several wood glues that are stronger than the wood itself? Why not use one of these glues? If you use crazy glue your work time is to short.A small hole drilled under the trigger guard to put a small dowel in would keep in place till the glue dried. I would be absolutely sure I had the correct fit before any hole is drilled or glue touches it and don't forget to clamp it either!
 
sturmkatze said:
I said ask his opinion and advice — not to give you one for free. He’sa great gunsmith too.
Click to expand...
I agree if he doesn't have experience working with repairs. I know what happened to me many years ago when I tried to glue a Oak table together that had developed a split! I don't need to explain! LOL!
That stock looks to good for someone to practice on!
 

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