Not sure what happened here, but you have our apologies. Sometimes you get drying checks across the grain in really curly wood, but this doesn't seem the case. Regardless we can get you a new stock if you want or if you would rather try to repair this the new stock is a standing offer in case it doesn't work well.
Repair or replace
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Thank you, I'm gonna try a fix, think I have a good handle on how to. It's on me, gun fell 16' out of a treestand so I can't hold anyone else responsible, but your gracious offer is greatly appreciated. If the fix doesn't work to my satisfaction, I'll look into a purchasing a replacement stock.
I don't use threaded rod, but hollow graphite shafts like broken arrows, with small holes groud (Dremel) into the sides like 'Swiss cheese', like every 5/8" down a line on the length of the shaft, then rotate it a bit and stagger the other holes.
Unlike a solid rod, this allows epoxy inside and outside of the rod and the holes become mechanical 'locks', so that along with the chemical epoxy bond, you get both a mechanical and chemical bond.
FYI, the biggest issues with solid all-thread rods is if TOO TIGHT in the hole you prepared, when it squeezes out all of the epoxy ... that bcomes a DRY joint and it will subsequently fail again.
Unlike a solid rod, this allows epoxy inside and outside of the rod and the holes become mechanical 'locks', so that along with the chemical epoxy bond, you get both a mechanical and chemical bond.
FYI, the biggest issues with solid all-thread rods is if TOO TIGHT in the hole you prepared, when it squeezes out all of the epoxy ... that bcomes a DRY joint and it will subsequently fail again.
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I would replace that stock. You could glue, pin, epoxy, mill a threaded rod into it then sleeve …. Wrist repairs are a challenge and the orientations are never the same. For a smooth bore i might repair it, but not for a rifle.
a great tip, thank you.
I haven't done a wrist repair yet but have fixed a bunch of other gunstock issues to be invisible unless I point them out. I like the challenge and would fix that break just to see if I could.
I think it was Dave C that showed a fix he did on a top tier gun he made that had the potential to break because of the poor grain orientation in the wrist. He cut a mortis under the trigger guard and plate and carved out a neat elongated square pocket that extended the length and most of the depth of the weak area and glued in a piece of wood to reinforce the area. I can't remember what wood he used; it might have been hickory. After he re-inletted and installed the trigger plate the fix was invisible.
I think it was Dave C that showed a fix he did on a top tier gun he made that had the potential to break because of the poor grain orientation in the wrist. He cut a mortis under the trigger guard and plate and carved out a neat elongated square pocket that extended the length and most of the depth of the weak area and glued in a piece of wood to reinforce the area. I can't remember what wood he used; it might have been hickory. After he re-inletted and installed the trigger plate the fix was invisible.
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The picture in my signature is a repair done to a maple stock that was broken at the wrist. The repair with epoxy and a small sheet of brass was done more than 30 years ago. The repair is still holding. I have hunted deer and shot many, many paper targets since the repair.
he already has a good story , i would fix it and go on. it will be that much better when you get that first deer with it. last year i dropped my ruger #1 45-70 out of my stand, landed on butt pad zero damage got really lucky.
Off topic, but reminded me. They found a guy dead in his stand from the exact scenario near here somewhere I cant remember details; all I remember is it discharged right up thru him.
ETA: Sorry, 1 more: Game warden also told of a guy they found dead hanging in his safety strap, somehow around one side of his neck and under one armpit cinched up choking tight, gun dropped on the ground had discharged, missed him, grazed the tree, but he was strangled anyway.
ETA2: Back on topic, the more I think, I'd just buy another stock from JK, even considering the $$.
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Well, decided to try my hand at a fix. Figured worst case was to buy a replacement stock which was only other option anyway. I think it came out ok considering, did a double wrap of wrist with fake sinew, figured would add strength and cover up some of the evidence, LOL. Seems strong and rigid, will see how it holds up. Only thing I'm considering to add is shellac or some other hardener to wrap. Stuff is very strong but cuts easy, not sure yet though. Used titebond III on break, threaded rod with opposite sides filed, drilled and placed across grain in wrist, loctite wood epoxy used to set rod and the wrap.
It looks good from here! You made the right choice. A couple of coats of varnish might be a good idea.
Amen, Bro.
Expert builders may differ. But, to me it looks repairable. I would glue up with a quality wood glue, like TBII. Then reinforce with hardwood dowels.
2 steel or aluminum rods spaced apart and epoxy and it will not break there again
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The fake sinew is heavily waxed and nothing will stick to it for long. I think you would be farther ahead peeling that fake sinew off and wrapping it with heavy duty silk thread. Then soak it with Titebond 3 until it takes no more.
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Hatman, is that the Paris City Hall your reg't. is standing in front of? Looks familiar, let us know what site the formation was at! Or, is it Wash., D.C.?
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Repairs are so very authentic, I'd fix it and leave it!! JMHO
