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Woodsrunner build help....

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mrfritz44

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So, the Woodsrunner came together like a charm recently with one exception. While installing the nose cap one of the brass screws sheered off. I received a new cap today but without screws so I headed down to the local hardware store to figure out what I could buy that would allow be to finish the build phase this weekend. In the process of trying many screws in the old and new caps, being very careful not to force any one screw, the closest we came to deducing the thread and pitch was 4-40. This seemed to be corroborated in another thread in this forum where another person also sheered off their nose cap screw.

That all said, any 4-40 we tried would only get about flush with the opposite side of the hole and then stop on both caps.

Before I screw up a second nose cap, no pun intended, who knows the size of these brass screws?
 
mrfritz44 said:
So, the Woodsrunner came together like a charm recently with one exception. While installing the nose cap one of the brass screws sheered off. I received a new cap today but without screws so I headed down to the local hardware store to figure out what I could buy that would allow be to finish the build phase this weekend. In the process of trying many screws in the old and new caps, being very careful not to force any one screw, the closest we came to deducing the thread and pitch was 4-40. This seemed to be corroborated in another thread in this forum where another person also sheered off their nose cap screw.

That all said, any 4-40 we tried would only get about flush with the opposite side of the hole and then stop on both caps.

Before I screw up a second nose cap, no pun intended, who knows the size of these brass screws?
Click to expand...
Just call Kibler. They will help you.
Larry
 
mrfritz44 said:
Yep, tried, and emailed, and texted from the hardware store. They're busy and I get it, so I thought I'd try here.
Click to expand...
Try a phone call. They're notoriously slow in responding to emails. They will respond, but they get so many, it may take up to a week. Since your problem involves a build issue, I think leaving a phone message will get you a quicker answer than an email.
 
Thanks very much Buff1958 and 2shots. I'll head back to the hardware store today and try the 4-40 screws again after a quick borrowed tap.

The screws were acting like they were imperial sized right up until they came flush to the opposing side, and then locked up like I was forcing a metric sized screw. The fact that these caps are $26 bucks to replace forced an abundance of caution and so your confirmation of size makes it easier to move forward, especially since any forced solution would be a scar on the gun I would see forever even if it was hidden under the barrel.
 
This issue was resolved by using a 2 inch 4-40 stainless screw with light oil to tap the cap holes in an improvised way. Once I new I was dealing with 4-40 size screws and wouldn't totally be mashing the threads it was pretty straightforward to attach the cap.

What's funny is that in Jim's video he also has a little trouble starting one of the screws. Maybe some degree of polishing after the tapping rounded over the brass and is increasing the chance of sheering these delicate screws? Anyway, good to be aware of this since at least one other person experienced the same.

Thanks again for confirming the size.
 
I hope Jim sees this. He always addresses recurring problems his customers have, especially when more than one person mentions. I remember having a problem with pinning the cap. Someone here told me how to make it work.
 
Mike in FL said:
I hope Jim sees this. He always addresses recurring problems his customers have, especially when more than one person mentions. I remember having a problem with pinning the cap. Someone here told me how to make it work.
Click to expand...
Also, from anoth
Polecat_Tom said:
I took broke one of the 4-40 screws off. I would recommend putting the nose cap on the stock and then chase both screw holes with a 4-40 tap and then secure with the brass 4-40 screw.
Click to expand...
I found out from another video (not Kibler's) that pining the cap on cand be done straight from the bottom, going through the ramrod channel. I used that method and found it to be an extra strong method, and easier than going in at an angle. If the pin is too long, just use a froind file to bring it flush with the channel..
 
Mike in FL said:
Also, from anoth

I found out from another video (not Kibler's) that pining the cap on cand be done straight from the bottom, going through the ramrod channel. I used that method and found it to be an extra strong method, and easier than going in at an angle. If the pin is too long, just use a froind file to bring it flush with the channel..Not "froind." I meant to type ROUND. A round file. Or even a round stone from your Dremel kit, although I do not recommend a Dremel anywhere near a precious Kibler kit.
Click to expand...
 
I don't know how Kibler nose caps are installed, my SMR didn't have one. On my builds I drill the hole through the stock and cap, countersink the hole in the barrel channel, I think I use a 4-40 steel screw that fits the countersink that I have burned the zinc off of. I countersink the hole in the cap slightly, install the screw, cut it off and peen it into the countersink lightly and file it off flush with the cap, it looks like a rivet.

nose cap rivet.JPG
 
Mike in FL said:
Also, from anoth

I found out from another video (not Kibler's) that pining the cap on cand be done straight from the bottom, going through the ramrod channel. I used that method and found it to be an extra strong method, and easier than going in at an angle. If the pin is too long, just use a froind file to bring it flush with the channel..
Click to expand...
This can work fine, but buy having two screws at the angle of the barrel flats, it tends to pull the stock and nosecap together better.
 

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