• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Tc hawken

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Apr 23, 2023
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Hello looking for some advice. I am a tool and die maker. Going to build a breech plug for my 45 cal tc . Ordering 15/16 8620 or 1137. My question is should I install the l and r lock first then mark and drill for the touch hole then drill the fire chamber just to the bottom of the touch hole. Thanks
 
The first thing you need to do is to use the TC lock bolt through the stock into the blind socket on the L&R lock and see where the lock sits, L&R RPL locks are not a drop in. You may have to drop the barrel or move it back to get the L&R lock pan in the right position at a mid-point on the side breech plug flat.

After you get your lock location correct, it sounds like you have a good plan on how to complete the project.
 
The first thing you need to do is to use the TC lock bolt through the stock into the blind socket on the L&R lock and see where the lock sits, L&R RPL locks are not a drop in. You may have to drop the barrel or move it back to get the L&R lock pan in the right position at a mid-point on the side breech plug flat.

After you get your lock location correct, it sounds like you have a good plan on how to complete the project.
Thank you for the help greatly appreciated
 
Here is how much I had to alter the lock inlet on my percussion stock to make a fit for the L&R. I assumed the lock bolt would be in the correct position and inletted the lock. The position was way off and I had to drill a new lock bolt hole in the stock to hit the L&R blind socket on the L&R lock bridal. The new lock bolt hit the back of the breech plug so I had to remove metal from the breech plug to accommodate the new bolt. I also had to move the barrel back about 1/4" to center the touchhole in the L&R pan, I cut a little off the under rib to move the barrel back.

renegade mock-up 005.JPG


If I had positioned the lock with the original lock bolt hole first before I inletted the lock, I suspect I wouldn't have caused myself so much extra work.

I had to shim the tail of the lock to close a gap that was left, over all the lock swap went well but took me a couple of weeks.

finished Renegads 001.JPG
 
Last edited:
I didn't quite have as much issues as Eric above to fit it in place, but close. I had different issues that were time consuming. Like Eric, the L&R plate was very close to fitting the existing inlet, but the bolt was off by probably 3/8". It was close enough the escutcheon on the other side still covered the prior hole, so I never bothered to fill it, there's just an oblong hole there now. I did have to inlet deeper to make room for the springs, and like Eric's picture above I had to shim the rear of the inlet. I used a block plane to shave end grain from a scrap of walnut, 3 shavings stacked filled it in. so i wood glued them in place and shoved the lock plate in to compress it. Once dry, I scraped it and dabbed a bit of tru oil on. My touch hole was luckily aligned with the pan, so I didn't have to fiddle with moving the barrel thankfully. All in all it took maybe 2 hours. The bigger problem I ran into was something was off with the miling of the tumbler, knowing what I know now, I should have sent it back and asked for a replacement. Being a DIY master in my own mind, I started filing and stoning which lead to filing and stoning just about everything. Probably 30 hours later I finally had a well functioning lock (if it's not right, send it back, I hear their support is very good).
 
Back
Top