Tc hawken

[SStace Dibling]

Hello looking for some advice. I am a tool and die maker. Going to build a breech plug for my 45 cal tc . Ordering 15/16 8620 or 1137. My question is should I install the l and r lock first then mark and drill for the touch hole then drill the fire chamber just to the bottom of the touch hole. Thanks

 

[Eric Krewson]

The first thing you need to do is to use the TC lock bolt through the stock into the blind socket on the L&R lock and see where the lock sits, L&R RPL locks are not a drop in. You may have to drop the barrel or move it back to get the L&R lock pan in the right position at a mid-point on the side breech plug flat.

After you get your lock location correct, it sounds like you have a good plan on how to complete the project.

 

[SStace Dibling]

The first thing you need to do is to use the TC lock bolt through the stock into the blind socket on the L&R lock and see where the lock sits, L&R RPL locks are not a drop in. You may have to drop the barrel or move it back to get the L&R lock pan in the right position at a mid-point on the side breech plug flat.

After you get your lock location correct, it sounds like you have a good plan on how to complete the project.

Thank you for the help greatly appreciated

 

[Eric Krewson]

Here is how much I had to alter the lock inlet on my percussion stock to make a fit for the L&R. I assumed the lock bolt would be in the correct position and inletted the lock. The position was way off and I had to drill a new lock bolt hole in the stock to hit the L&R blind socket on the L&R lock bridal. The new lock bolt hit the back of the breech plug so I had to remove metal from the breech plug to accommodate the new bolt. I also had to move the barrel back about 1/4" to center the touchhole in the L&R pan, I cut a little off the under rib to move the barrel back.

If I had positioned the lock with the original lock bolt hole first before I inletted the lock, I suspect I wouldn't have caused myself so much extra work.

I had to shim the tail of the lock to close a gap that was left, over all the lock swap went well but took me a couple of weeks.

 

[WonkyEye]

I didn't quite have as much issues as Eric above to fit it in place, but close. I had different issues that were time consuming. Like Eric, the L&R plate was very close to fitting the existing inlet, but the bolt was off by probably 3/8". It was close enough the escutcheon on the other side still covered the prior hole, so I never bothered to fill it, there's just an oblong hole there now. I did have to inlet deeper to make room for the springs, and like Eric's picture above I had to shim the rear of the inlet. I used a block plane to shave end grain from a scrap of walnut, 3 shavings stacked filled it in. so i wood glued them in place and shoved the lock plate in to compress it. Once dry, I scraped it and dabbed a bit of tru oil on. My touch hole was luckily aligned with the pan, so I didn't have to fiddle with moving the barrel thankfully. All in all it took maybe 2 hours. The bigger problem I ran into was something was off with the miling of the tumbler, knowing what I know now, I should have sent it back and asked for a replacement. Being a DIY master in my own mind, I started filing and stoning which lead to filing and stoning just about everything. Probably 30 hours later I finally had a well functioning lock (if it's not right, send it back, I hear their support is very good).