Dang, search results for ball lubes, bullet lubes, synthetic lubes, and just lubes turned up no results, not even this current thread, I must be setting that parameters wrong or something
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What do you guys lube your C&B revolvers with?
- Thread starter Surrywoodman
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Another workable lube for the front of the chambers is Do-All Tool Saver but there are far better alternatives.
General Lee perhaps used the commonly available mid-19th Century sealing wax as the substance on his 1851's chambers was described as a dark wax.
As long as what you have works then yeah, it works.
General Lee perhaps used the commonly available mid-19th Century sealing wax as the substance on his 1851's chambers was described as a dark wax.
As long as what you have works then yeah, it works.
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But I watched lots of Lorette Lynn's Crisco commercials and she never said nothing about revolvers.
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I have used Crisco for over 50 years and put up with the mess but have in the last few years switched to 1/8th " Duro-felt wads soaked in Mathews lube comprised of equal parts of Bees wax, bear oil and Murphy's oil soap. The bear oil is my substitution for Neatsfoot oil in the original formula. The wads are soaked in the lube while still melted before it sets up , picked out with tweezers and let cool on wax paper. The lube does not melt after it sponifies and sets up and keeps practically forever.
The felt wads don't leave the mess all over gun, spotting scope and shooting glasses while maintaining good accuracy. They do however use up some powder volume for max loading.
This is the set up I use with the wad cutting dies invented by Fred Lieth. The die works in a reloading press and also secures the pie tin capture plate.
I love to punch out wads as it gives the same kind of satisfaction as popping bubble wrap !
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The thing about over ball lube is that with each shot the volume of lube remaining in subsequent chambers is decreased which is an ever changing part of ones load equation where as the lubed wad is a consistent component.
One lube you never should use is WD40. The only 6 chamber chain fire I saw was when my brother used it when the cylinder of his 1858 Remington became hard to turn from fouling. Bless his soul no injuries but he did have to change his shorts.
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Butch wax.
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Yes sir, that is the fact of the matter.
The only way to get the same results (whether they're good or bad is another story) for each shot is to avoid variations. Doesn't mean lube over the bullet isn't accurate enough for hitting what you want to hit but the 1st shot and the 6th shot aren't going to enjoy the same conditions. Whether it's different enough to matter depends on lots of other stuff.
Monsieur De Land, I am most impressed with your set-up. I ran out of my last batch of Matthews lube a few years ago and should make another. Also greatly admire your Fred Lieth punch, which Paul M. used to sing the praises of. I have used both Matthews and SPG to lube the conicals for the 1860 Army with perfect satisfaction.
Out of context. As Lee never shot his gun of course he would seal the chambers! (note seal not chain fire).
It is funny to see all the Goop solutions and why one goop is the best.
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I use a veggie fiber wad sold by BACO, $20 for 1000. The .462”x .030” are perfect for my .45 rifles and the .45 daily carry revolvers as well. Most of the time I shoot conicals and they’re lubed in the grooves only with SPG/StihlSyntheticHP/and jojoba oil mixture. Great accuracy, zero leading, even with dead soft lead, (usually not much of a concern with most revolvers but this is also my rifle lube and it’s important for those guns), and this mixture will not affect powder charge.I have used Crisco for over 50 years and put up with the mess but have in the last few years switched to 1/8th " Duro-felt wads soaked in Mathews lube comprised of equal parts of Bees wax, bear oil and Murphy's oil soap. The bear oil is my substitution for Neatsfoot oil in the original formula. The wads are soaked in the lube while still melted before it sets up , picked out with tweezers and let cool on wax paper. The lube does not melt after it sponifies and sets up and keeps practically forever.
The felt wads don't leave the mess all over gun, spotting scope and shooting glasses while maintaining good accuracy. They do however use up some powder volume for max loading.
This is the set up I use with the wad cutting dies invented by Fred Lieth. The die works in a reloading press and also secures the pie tin capture plate.
I love to punch out wads as it gives the same kind of satisfaction as popping bubble wrap !
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What diameter are you using?I have used Crisco for over 50 years and put up with the mess but have in the last few years switched to 1/8th " Duro-felt wads soaked in Mathews lube comprised of equal parts of Bees wax, bear oil and Murphy's oil soap. The bear oil is my substitution for Neatsfoot oil in the original formula. The wads are soaked in the lube while still melted before it sets up , picked out with tweezers and let cool on wax paper. The lube does not melt after it sponifies and sets up and keeps practically forever.
The felt wads don't leave the mess all over gun, spotting scope and shooting glasses while maintaining good accuracy. They do however use up some powder volume for max loading.
This is the set up I use with the wad cutting dies invented by Fred Lieth. The die works in a reloading press and also secures the pie tin capture plate.
I love to punch out wads as it gives the same kind of satisfaction as popping bubble wrap !
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I use the same lube I used for my N-SSA musket ammunition. It's 50/50 beeswax/Crisco, with some vegetable oil thrown in to soften the lube.
Be aware that the N-SSA rules now do not require lube over the bullet if you use lubricated bullets (e.g. a conical with a grease groove).
Be aware that the N-SSA rules now do not require lube over the bullet if you use lubricated bullets (e.g. a conical with a grease groove).
Crisco is a mess to start with. I used wads.
I use a lubed conical bullet over a lubed wad. Bullet is pan lubed with tallow and beeswax mixture that's hard enough to not melt in the heat. Wad lube is also tallow and beeswax but a little softer. Wads are laid into the melted mixture until they soak up what they're going to soak up then let cool to be soft enough to lube the fouling but hard enough to not ruin the powder.
I saw that in the rules Maillemaker, but my intent was to use ball, that said, I have a slight off topic question, I did not see the 1851 Navy in 44cal listed, it consistently says 36 cal. but the 1860 is 44 cal and is approved, does that mean that only the original caliber of the 1851 (36cal) is approved? If so then I have to get an 1860 Army if I want to load for both and only use the 1860 for N-SSA
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That is correct. The 1851 Navy was never issued in .44 caliber, so it is a "fantasy" reproduction and is not an N-SSA approved arm.
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.460 plus as they cut from the die in the Duro-Felt or veggy wad head gasket material. I like to make them really tight fitting in the chamber mouth.
You guys have been great and very helpful in me figuring this out. Back when I had two C&B revolvers years ago, I used to just shoot them, I had a Navy and an Army, both in 44, so I guess I have come full circle on this, I have the Navy again, but in order to shoot at N-SSA I am going to have to get the 1860 Army again. Now before, I shot 451 balls and never had a problem, but I see on Dixie's sight that the description recommends 454 balls. I have some 451s but I just need to get a 454 mould and melt those down I guess, but with a good over ball lube I probably don't have to sweat that immediately? I mean I could shoot up the 451s and then pour 454s.
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As long as the bullets shave a ring of lead*, you've got a good tight fit and should be fine.
Steve
* All the caveats of chamfers/swaging/burrs/conical chambers apply.
Steve
* All the caveats of chamfers/swaging/burrs/conical chambers apply.
