What do you guys lube your C&B revolvers with?

[Surrywoodman]

Dang, search results for ball lubes, bullet lubes, synthetic lubes, and just lubes turned up no results, not even this current thread, I must be setting that parameters wrong or something

 

[nkbj]

Another workable lube for the front of the chambers is Do-All Tool Saver but there are far better alternatives.
General Lee perhaps used the commonly available mid-19th Century sealing wax as the substance on his 1851's chambers was described as a dark wax.
As long as what you have works then yeah, it works.

 

[nkbj]

But I watched lots of Lorette Lynn's Crisco commercials and she never said nothing about revolvers.

 

[M. De Land]

All,
I just got a Pietta 1851 Navy in 44 cal. brass frame that I gave $80 for. It seems to be close to pristine and the guy only shot it a few times until he had a chain fire which freaked him out. I used to have a Navy and Army many moons ago but sold them. Back in the day I used crisco but after a couple of shots it became a mess. Does anyone have an over ball lube that does not disintegrate too badly? I have read where folks used crisco/bees wax...looking for what you use that gives success. I am not really interested in wads but I am willing to consider, never have used them.

I have used Crisco for over 50 years and put up with the mess but have in the last few years switched to 1/8th " Duro-felt wads soaked in Mathews lube comprised of equal parts of Bees wax, bear oil and Murphy's oil soap. The bear oil is my substitution for Neatsfoot oil in the original formula. The wads are soaked in the lube while still melted before it sets up , picked out with tweezers and let cool on wax paper. The lube does not melt after it sponifies and sets up and keeps practically forever.
The felt wads don't leave the mess all over gun, spotting scope and shooting glasses while maintaining good accuracy. They do however use up some powder volume for max loading.
This is the set up I use with the wad cutting dies invented by Fred Lieth. The die works in a reloading press and also secures the pie tin capture plate.
I love to punch out wads as it gives the same kind of satisfaction as popping bubble wrap !

 

[M. De Land]

All,
I just got a Pietta 1851 Navy in 44 cal. brass frame that I gave $80 for. It seems to be close to pristine and the guy only shot it a few times until he had a chain fire which freaked him out. I used to have a Navy and Army many moons ago but sold them. Back in the day I used crisco but after a couple of shots it became a mess. Does anyone have an over ball lube that does not disintegrate too badly? I have read where folks used crisco/bees wax...looking for what you use that gives success. I am not really interested in wads but I am willing to consider, never have used them.

The thing about over ball lube is that with each shot the volume of lube remaining in subsequent chambers is decreased which is an ever changing part of ones load equation where as the lubed wad is a consistent component.

 

[bpd303]

One lube you never should use is WD40. The only 6 chamber chain fire I saw was when my brother used it when the cylinder of his 1858 Remington became hard to turn from fouling. Bless his soul no injuries but he did have to change his shorts.

 

[Captndan]

Butch wax.

 

[nkbj]

The thing about over ball lube is that with each shot the volume of lube remaining in subsequent chambers is decreased which is an ever changing part of ones load equation where as the lubed wad is a consistent component.

Yes sir, that is the fact of the matter.

The only way to get the same results (whether they're good or bad is another story) for each shot is to avoid variations. Doesn't mean lube over the bullet isn't accurate enough for hitting what you want to hit but the 1st shot and the 6th shot aren't going to enjoy the same conditions. Whether it's different enough to matter depends on lots of other stuff.

 

[BillinOregon]

Monsieur De Land, I am most impressed with your set-up. I ran out of my last batch of Matthews lube a few years ago and should make another. Also greatly admire your Fred Lieth punch, which Paul M. used to sing the praises of. I have used both Matthews and SPG to lube the conicals for the 1860 Army with perfect satisfaction.

 

[Smokerr]

General Lee perhaps used the commonly available mid-19th Century sealing wax as the substance on his 1851's chambers was described as a dark wax.
As long as what you have works then yeah, it works.

Out of context. As Lee never shot his gun of course he would seal the chambers! (note seal not chain fire).

It is funny to see all the Goop solutions and why one goop is the best.

 

[Bad Karma]

I have used Crisco for over 50 years and put up with the mess but have in the last few years switched to 1/8th " Duro-felt wads soaked in Mathews lube comprised of equal parts of Bees wax, bear oil and Murphy's oil soap. The bear oil is my substitution for Neatsfoot oil in the original formula. The wads are soaked in the lube while still melted before it sets up , picked out with tweezers and let cool on wax paper. The lube does not melt after it sponifies and sets up and keeps practically forever.
The felt wads don't leave the mess all over gun, spotting scope and shooting glasses while maintaining good accuracy. They do however use up some powder volume for max loading.
This is the set up I use with the wad cutting dies invented by Fred Lieth. The die works in a reloading press and also secures the pie tin capture plate.
I love to punch out wads as it gives the same kind of satisfaction as popping bubble wrap !

I use a veggie fiber wad sold by BACO, $20 for 1000. The .462”x .030” are perfect for my .45 rifles and the .45 daily carry revolvers as well. Most of the time I shoot conicals and they’re lubed in the grooves only with SPG/StihlSyntheticHP/and jojoba oil mixture. Great accuracy, zero leading, even with dead soft lead, (usually not much of a concern with most revolvers but this is also my rifle lube and it’s important for those guns), and this mixture will not affect powder charge.