Failed attempts at a rubbed back / French grey finish

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DillyJamba

DillyJamba

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I've been trying to finish this fowler barrel and after multiple attempts I'm just not happy with the results. It seems when I rub black the bluing, I keep overshooting the look I want chasing down areas of inconsistency. included pictures of the barrel blued and after my final attempt at rubbing back. Anyone done a finish like this? I used 44/40 in my attempts. Pretty frustrated as I had it to a nice bright mirror finish after filing/sanding before my attempts and wondering if I should have just left it.

Maybe I've looked at it too long at this point, any tips or opinions on my current outcome?

I don't think it looks terrible, but it has a somewhat splotchy appearance in some areas.

I'm opposed to bluing or browning as I want it to appear period correct but bright white, I'm afraid would cause an unpleasant glare.
 

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DillyJamba said:
I used 44/40 in my attempts.
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Well, you asked for opinions, so…. 44/40 is just a top coat, not actually converting the top coat of steel like a traditional rust/bluing, and a I find it not very durable or long lasting if handled much.

Personally prefer a light rust bluing that has been carded back to the so-called ‘French Grey’ finish, much more permanent once you get the look you want. Now if you are looking for a finish on a display piece that won’t be handled much, any of the cold bluing formulas like 44/40 will give the look you want if you fiddle with it enough.

Again, just my opinion.
 
I’ve often wondered what French gray finish is so did a little search.

French Gray - An acid etched or phosphate finish, applied typically to shotgun actions, forming a gray-colored, non-relective matte finish which also provides some protection from rust. Also called, gray-etched. Not brightly polished like Coin Finished

So it’s not just a worn bluing but a coating. It can be done by a hobbyist with care.
 
Phil Coffins said:
I’ve often wondered what French gray finish is so did a little search.

French Gray - An acid etched or phosphate finish, applied typically to shotgun actions, forming a gray-colored, non-relective matte finish which also provides some protection from rust. Also called, gray-etched. Not brightly polished like Coin Finished

So it’s not just a worn bluing but a coating. It can be done by a hobbyist with care.
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Not a coating, but a treatment. Naval jelly is phosphoric acid.
 
DillyJamba said:
I've been trying to finish this fowler barrel and after multiple attempts I'm just not happy with the results. It seems when I rub black the bluing, I keep overshooting the look I want chasing down areas of inconsistency. included pictures of the barrel blued and after my final attempt at rubbing back. Anyone done a finish like this? I used 44/40 in my attempts. Pretty frustrated as I had it to a nice bright mirror finish after filing/sanding before my attempts and wondering if I should have just left it.

Maybe I've looked at it too long at this point, any tips or opinions on my current outcome?

I don't think it looks terrible, but it has a somewhat splotchy appearance in some areas.

I'm opposed to bluing or browning as I want it to appear period correct but bright white, I'm afraid would cause an unpleasant glare.
Click to expand...
Sand the metal bright using 220 grit paper, then apply naval jelly, let sit 15 minutes, rinse off and dry. Repeat the naval jelly if you want it grayer. 20190730_192104.jpg
 
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Probably you’re going for the look of a gun that was finished bright but has some patina on it now and is not so shiny. I’m guessing you’re using the term French gray for the look you’re wanting. I agree any natural patina will be a little blotchy. I like that the barrel band crevices are darker. There are a million ways to do this but the more mirror the surface preparation, the harder it will be to get the look you want. I’d take it back to 320 grit which is at least as fine as originals. Or rub it with pumice powder on a wet rag. Then decide if you want to re-blue and then rub most of that off. Again, I’d use pumice powder on a wet rag. Lee Valley sells a big container. Mine has lasted decades.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/115291-pumice-stone
 
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If you want blotchy, use the naval jelly then apply a solution of salt and vinegar. I brushed it on, thoroughly wetting the metal and letting undissolved salt crystals cling to the barrel. I let it sit a couple of days, then wiped with a dry cloth to take the crusty stuff off. This was the result (on the barrel, I kept the lock bright.)
20241103_130052.jpg20241103_130223.jpg20241103_132826.jpg
20241103_132801.jpg
 
Personally I used Birchwood Casey cold blue, which I know is not very durable.

I then assembled the rifle and rubbed it down with some old material from some Levi jeans, the blueing stays where the Levi material cannot reach, where the barrel meets the wood around the sights etc. and gives it a nice "been around awhile but taken care of" look that I like.

YMMV
 
fresh eyes in the morning gave it one more go super happy with the result. Giving it a coat of renaissance wax and calling it a day.

Pictures don’t do it justice.

Ultimately I think the key was previously I was heating the barrel to be warm to the touch to ensure the black would penetrate but it was causing the finish to be super inconsistent once I started rubbing back.

Today I applied to the barrel at room temp and it allowed for much better control of uniformity when applying and rubbing back. (I also rised it with water throughout the rubbing back process to get a clear idea of my progress during the process, much easier to control.

I’m sure this will not be the most durable finish but I think it will improve with age and does a nice job of knocking off the glare/shine.

I was also able to leave the blueing on the hidden parts of the gun in tact the wood to metal contact points have an extra layer of protection from rust as I very rarely if ever intend to remove the barrel from the stock.
 

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I think Jax Black would better achieve the resulting "look" that the OP wants, but keeping in mind it's not a rust bluing solution and it isn't a permanent corrosion protection solution; it's just a "finish", and it needs to be renewed periodically. So it all depends on what the OP wants to achieve by a metal treatment: appearance or protection? Sometimes it's hard to get both with a single product or a single method. None of which is "historically correct" anyway. That's more a matter of time than of product and method.
 
I have a spray on bottle of phosphoric acid that I spray on the parts and let stand for about 15 minutes then reapply 2 more times. I then wash it off with water and dry the parts. I then wax the parts or oil them.
 

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