scratch
- Thread starter lone pine
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
degrease and cold touch up blue. the pen type may work . wedge screw??
no. it's forward of that, flanking both sides of the screw for the the loading lever. I'm hoping for some more input also. this is my favorite piece.
kh54
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2021
- Messages
- 714
- Reaction score
- 1,148
if you want like new appearance I can only think of sanding down the scratches and rebluing. My Uberti Walker was in great mechanical condition but the finish was flawed. I stripped all the bluing, left the cylinder white like originals, then cold blued the rest. My cold bluing job is not professional and gives the gun a worn but cared for look. Anyway I like it.
Attachments
i saw the marks . i was just mentioning the screw because its missing. unless you want to reblue the entire gun ,cold touch up is your best bet. theres not much else.
0000 steel wool with oil. After you get it like you want it. It will not remove the blue. Degrease the area and cold blue. Do the whole area so as to blend it in.
I've used this method and it works good. If the scratches are deep, you will have to sand them down to get them out. I've had some so deep I had to draw file it. Again do the whole area.
I've used this method and it works good. If the scratches are deep, you will have to sand them down to get them out. I've had some so deep I had to draw file it. Again do the whole area.
Attachments
That looks good to me. Good job. All you need in the box is the tool.
great job on the walker.
kh54
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2021
- Messages
- 714
- Reaction score
- 1,148
You mean the wrench in the lower left corner?
BTW, I posted about this case and what I was trying to accomplish some time ago: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/asm-walker-presentation-case.131803/
Oh ok, I see it now.You mean the wrench in the lower left corner?
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
You ought to look that holster over carefully, hard for me to see a brass rivet doing that damage.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2020
- Messages
- 3,136
- Reaction score
- 7,112
I'm with Phil, take a magnet and check to see if it's not a brass plated steel rivet. No way brass can scratch steel.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 9,469
- Reaction score
- 4,633
IF the rivet is brass then you may only have a mar not a scratch. May want to duplicate the mar on a trial blue surface and apply some chemical brass remover (Brasso) before use on your gun.
It’s getting harder to find solid brass or copper hardware! I’ve had pretty good luck with Weaver Leather. Most places are selling plated steel or plated mystery metal.
Jay
well you're all correct. it wasn't brass. now i have to go back and figure out how it got boogered up. thx for replies.
lp
lp
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 9,469
- Reaction score
- 4,633
Oh, I see it now, missed the picture some how. I'm wondering why the gall would be in that direction from holster use, seems like it would be length wise. Looks like that's going to require some draw filing, flat sanding and re-bluing.
Yes you're right. Can't yet figure out how it happened. I'm taking it to the smith to see what he can do. don't trust my filing skills.
Dexterado
32 Cal
You could try some automotive scratch remover like you’d get at O’Reilly, but those look pretty deep. No matter what, you’ll have to do some cold bluing. That’s a bummer that happened.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 9,469
- Reaction score
- 4,633
Cold blue will never match very well or be as tough as the original. One of the best cold blues I use is Oxfo blue by Brownell's but it will not be as dark or durable as the original factory blue. You will most likely have to use something like Niedners rust blue that will get a real bite and require carding and boiling if you don't strip it down and start all over to get a match
Early on when I got done with gun school I set up hot chemical bluing tanks and used Brownell's bluing salts with good success and that is the bluing method used on reproductions but I hated the mess and switched to the old Niedner rust blue method. It looks and lasts much better than any hot chemical blue but is labor intensive and time consuming. I'm thinking you can get a pretty good match with this process and it will last if you can find some one local who still does it.
