MdeLand - "old Niedner rust blue method"
you have a readers digest version of what this is?
lp
you have a readers digest version of what this is?
lp
scratch
- Thread starter lone pine
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yikes - just found it. looks like I'm going to the gunsmith.
Dex. - "That’s a bummer that happened."
Yes, I'm furious I let that happen. Now if I could just recall what the heck I did.
lp
Yes, I'm furious I let that happen. Now if I could just recall what the heck I did.
lp
Touch up may take the glare from the dings but they will still be there and visible, I would take the other screw out find a smooth flat surface and polish them (match the ‘sheen of the other side) out then cold blue and try to come close to surrounding area.
with with wet 320 or even finer?
P800 wet will do a good job. Won't remove the scratches but it will give you a good surface to blue. As mentioned above, it will take the glare off the scratches. Similar result with oil and fine steel wool.
All depends how far you want to go with it. 40, 50, and 60 remove metal. Can't tell by the pictures how deep the scratches are. Even draw filing will require doing the whole side involved.
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I got it out of a hard cover gunsmithing book I have by a 50's era gunsmith named Roy Dunlap who used this method developed by Niedner gun works of Dioack Michigan. I had the various acid types on hand from the book so mixed up a supply of the bluing solution and have been using it exclusively for 30 years or so it is that durable and looks so good.
I use the Oyxfo Blue from Brownell's for blade sights when I make them and it does a pretty good job on small areas but is not as durable as the Niedner rust blue applied with boiling and carding cycles.
This sight I just made recently for the Walker was rough finished and blued with the Oyxfo Blue solution which is a wipe on fluid solution cleaned up with soft cotton cloth. It would be worth a try and see if it suits your needs.
The second photo shows the building up of coats and carding it off with soft cotton as it gets darker. The first photo is the finished job with perhaps 5-6 applications and cardings .
The loading lever latch has also been Oyxfo blued an added a bit later.
The third picture is the original brass blade removed and set on top the barrel for a profile shot before the dovetail was milled in the barrel. The dovetail was milled across the original sight mortise so the new sight would cover it up. It worked out really well so far depending on how much it will need to be moved for windage regulation. Might wind up having to make a wider based front blade.
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nice work. and quite a project.
i did a little skimming of this project after i asked. pretty sure the gunsmith can do this. i have no place to set up and do (certainly not the skills) this. looks like you're well-outfitted.
lp
i did a little skimming of this project after i asked. pretty sure the gunsmith can do this. i have no place to set up and do (certainly not the skills) this. looks like you're well-outfitted.
lp
I have mf-414 india, silversmith stone and mf-14 medium square stones. I'll bet the 414 finer stone would work but I'm not gonna dive in with the stones until I get some feedback here. thx
lp
lp
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You'll need at least a diamond file or be there until the Lord returns working out the galls with a stone or flat sanding with emery paper. Be careful to keep the surface flat and not round off the corners. You can do a perfect blue job but if the surface is dished (screw holes) or corners rounded it will look terrible. The secret of good bluing is in the metal contouring and finish, primarily.
oh ok. ty for that.
lp
lp
