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  1. V

    Cheek rest molding

    Dave....you create such beautiful rifles....but the cheek on the 3rd photo down really has appeal because of the integrated carving......Fred
  2. V

    Cheek rest molding

    Because my cheek piece moldings vary a lot, the tools also vary. I cut right angles w/ an Exacto knife, "V" grooves w/ a "V" chisel and radiused grooves w/ a gouge. Needle files are also used. .....Fred
  3. V

    Escutcheon plates

    After the escutcheon is inletted, the holes are drilled using the holes in the escutcheon to guide the drill. The drilled holes in the escutcheons have a ctsk or if a rounded head "nail" is used, the ctsk is omitted.
  4. V

    How to repair the copper sheen on a barrel caused by not following directions?

    On the normally 46" long bbls I work w/, for application I use a small piece of flannel doubled up and after wetting w/ LMF, slightly blot the flannel on paper toweling. When starting at one end and never going back over , I usually have to re-wet again and blot the flannel to reach the the...
  5. V

    Making a front sight for aging eyes

    Used this front sight in the later years of squirrel hunting and seeing I liked 6 pcs of meat from each squirrel, head shots were mandatory. This sight is composed of 3 pcs....the base, blade and sterling silver insert which is soft soldered in and has a light gathering face angle The base has...
  6. V

    Stuck jag in my SM Flintlock Rifle

    Remove the brechplug!......Fred
  7. V

    inlay practice

    Someone mentioned breech plugs and the prep before inletting them. Here's my take on ensuring that my guns don't have the dreaded breech plug "hump" behind the breech. The first thing I do is to file off the large radius at the junction of the bolster and tang and after also filing steel off...
  8. V

    scratch repair question

    Hardly noticeable and it probably won't be the last scratch....anything you might do , would probably make it worse.....Fred
  9. V

    I'm already frustrated, and I've had the gun 30 minutes!

    I use 1/16 dia hardened music wire for all the pins in my builds....it's very uniform in dia so all the pins can be driven in or out w/o a whole lot of force. After finishing the stock, I hand twist a 1/16 drill in each hole to clean out any finish. I start on one side and twist the drill...
  10. V

    I'm already frustrated, and I've had the gun 30 minutes!

    One attribute that hasn't been mentioned is PATIENCE when working on projects of any kind, but especially on MLers. I use 1/16 dia. hardened music wire for ALL the pins in my LR builds and slightly chamfer both ends. Made a drift from a length of Allen wrench and shoved it into a piece of...
  11. V

    Cutting a crescent?

    The "tool" I use might not be suitable for some builders....I use a Dremel w/ a woodcutter first and when close, use a sandpaper wheel. Prussian Blue is used to "spot" where wood is to be removed. As was said.....the Bplate return must be in line w/ the comb and held down when the Bplate is...
  12. V

    Patch box release geometry

    I've found that it's easier to drill the pushrod hole if one doesn't start at the top of the Bplate return. The hole location for the FH screw which is perpendicular to the top flat of the Bplate is marked in the wood w/ a drill and the Bplate is removed to drill the hole for the pushrod. The...
  13. V

    Breech Plug Removal

    I clamp the bbl in the vise and have copper jaw covers to protect whatever is being clamped. I use a 12" Crescent wrench and copper shims to protest the bolster, A 2 foot length of pipe goes over the wrench handle and have never failed to remove a breechplug...which should be removed for...
  14. V

    J. Armstrong build.

    Having built many Bucks County LRs which are very petite and slim, having 1/16" or slightly less web at the breech and 5/32" web at the muzzle are paramount in achieving that look. The webs used enable a slight angling of the upper and lower forestocks towards the muzzle which also yields a...
  15. V

    Patch box release geometry

    This type of Pbox release installs better if the button in the Bplate return is a separate item...I use a flat head screw w/ the slot filed off. ....this enables the button to be at a right angle to the return. The push rod then is just a straight piece of round stock which pushes against a...
  16. V

    Refinished my T\C Hawken

    Nice job of it. Built my TC Hawken from a kit and never replaced any parts. The initial use was on squirrels and it was a real "head hitter". Later on used it for deer w/ Maxi Balls and got a few deer. My only complaint was that it was a cheek slapper so one year I modified the butttock and it...
  17. V

    What is you guy's technique for peening a loose dovetail

    On a new build, I use a dovetail upsetting chisel { except for the front sight} to raise a molding on both sides of the dovetail which can be peened down for a loose rear sight and the bbl lugs for a tight fit. The molding at the rear sight is then filed to yield a neat molding that yields...
  18. V

    Baking soda to water percentage?

    I've used household ammonia on approx. a couple dozen bbls and it has always stopped the LMF from further rusting. If the browning has left a crust on the bbl. neutralizing is much more difficult. If the browning is crusted or too thick, a good rub w/ steel wool removes the outer crust and it...
  19. V

    Permalyn or Tried and True

    I use 2 coats of 2 different finishes and the total drying time is 36 hrs. First are the 2 wipe on/wipe off coats of LMF sealer w/ a complete dry between coats. Then 0000 steel wool removes any LMF that's on the surface. A good vacuuming removes any steel wool strands. Next are 2 sparse...
  20. V

    How to TIGHTEN a front dovetail site?

    I've always just made a new sight that fits properly. ....of course I don't use "fancy" sights for a rear or front. Both the new front and rear sights are easy to make.....Fred
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