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  1. E

    Snaphaunce Lock Build

    These are the two sears, primary and secondary. The pin is pointing to the critical base surface that should be very uniformly flat to ensure a great feeling trigger. I also implemented a self contained overtravel feature. This is how the sears should look from the outside of the...
  2. E

    Snaphaunce Lock Build

    Here is the interface between the primary and secondary sear. The design is great, as the trigger action is extremely smooth. The **** is held rearward by side pressure on an angled plane, not a 90 degree shelf. Once the secondary sear breaks away, the **** pushes it's corresponding sear nose...
  3. E

    Snaphaunce Lock Build

    This is the spring for the "steel" (frizzen) installed. The outer "link" that unitizes the frizzen spring and the frizzen allocation was drilled first. By drilling the "link" first, and locating from this component initially will ensure that the frizzen pivot bushing is not cocked to one side...
  4. E

    Snaphaunce Lock Build

    This is the ****, **** stop, and pan installed. After "squaring" the lockplate, I installed the ****. This step is self explanatory, but due to the side pressure that the horizontally acting sear will put on the ****, a nice wobble free fit will ensure a very smooth action. If a lot of play is...
  5. E

    building a lock from castings

    Great! This is a perfectly timed class to help me along on the snaphaunce build. :thumbsup:
  6. E

    Snaphaunce Lock Build

    First step was to get the lockplate flat and "square". I used a machinist's vise and an an arbor press to get the casting kinks out. This was after a simple initial draw filing. I merely removed the casting sprues and any grossly high spots. You will never get it perfectly flat, but it should...
  7. E

    TRS goodies are in!

    Thanks.
  8. E

    TRS goodies are in!

    Thanks Russ. I will have to make a new lockplate, and modify the pan. This casting set is lacking in quality to put it mildly.
  9. E

    Snaphaunce Lock Build

    This is the snaphaunce lock casting set. The casting quality is unbelievable. The parts are dead straight and 100% void free. Detail is superb. The mechanics of the lock are very straightforward. The pan cover slides forward via a linear "ratchet" actuated by the ****. The sear acts on the...
  10. E

    TRS goodies are in!

    Did you drop the pan down lower than the uppermost rear portion of the plate? If so, was there any problem with articulation of the sear bar? :confused: The notch in question is the one I circled in the image, not the shield groove to the rear of the pan. If the pan is fully "dovetailed" into...
  11. E

    TRS goodies are in!

    I think that I may have fallen victim to a historical compromise of sorts. This late matchlock should technically have a unitized pan/lockplate, but due to shared castings, TRS says to solder this one to the barrel, and eliminate the front groove. I am considering making a new lockplate that...
  12. E

    TRS goodies are in!

    Got through to Jesse at TRS. Answered all my questions in a jiffy. The serpentine is split all the way down the "neck", and stops at the pivot area (rounded base). The split is centered. The match cord tightening screw is threaded into the outer half of the "clamp", and the end going towards...
  13. E

    TRS goodies are in!

    These are the matchlock castings. The quality of the castings is not top notch, and they will require mill work and some soldering. I labeled the pan shelf on the lockplate, and as you can see, the front of the pan has the angled allocation for the plate. The lockplate shelf however, just runs...
  14. E

    TRS goodies are in!

    Thanks! I am already looking at a lockplate notch on the matchlock pan that does not have a home on the lockplate. The rear of the pan interface checks out, so it is the right pan, but there is something amiss for sure. :hmm:
  15. E

    TRS goodies are in!

    After my initial cursory inspection.... The matchlock caliver castings are not as straight or void free as the snaphaunce set. They are entirely satifactory, however. But, there is a difference. The pivot shaft on the matchlock (serpentine) will be best served with a lathe or mill to establish...
  16. E

    TRS goodies are in!

    Whoa...the snaphaunce lockplate is about the size of a machete, and the internals and external components are fantastic. This particular lock comes with instructions (backordered-not kidding). The matchlock set has a cooling crack on the sear bar, but TRS immediately remedied the problem, and...
  17. E

    Shooting my gonnes today

    The Heade Shoppe? I have been waiting almost a year for Brescian incense. :haha:
  18. E

    Priming Flask

    This is the fill plug created with the brass screw. you just turn the philips drive out, and no one will be the wiser. :winking:
  19. E

    Priming Flask

    More angles. The ivory turns very easily with any HSS tool. It can be filed, sanded, and polished without any problem. I drilled and tapped the ivory 1/4-20 after squaring the ends on the lathe. I then took a brass pan-head philips fastener, and merely screwed it in with some epoxy on the...
  20. E

    Priming Flask

    The length of the body (not to include the valve or the fill plug) is 4.075". The widest portion is 1.3", and the diameter of the brass ring directly below the valve is .480, and the height is .730 at the thickest point near the base. The internal cavity follows the outer profile, and was...
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