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  1. E

    Ebony for pistol stock?

    Ebony is "splintery" typically, and I am going to assume that you will be going for Gaboon. Some Ebony is shipped in pretty "wet" and will shrink after all your hard work. Ebony is hard, cuts good with machines, but requires razor sharp chisels and skill to prevent it from splintering. It...
  2. E

    How Long ?

    Didn't know that about old soda- thanks.
  3. E

    How Long ?

    The "better" the job (fine grained with very even tone) takes a more serious effort to neutralize in my experience. I scrub with baking soda, and then with dishsoap. I use an old toothbrush and really scrub it good with a series of thorough rinses. I then oil it (Kroil) and let it sit on the...
  4. E

    First build thread 45 cal flintlock

    On my very first build, I just inlet the whole shebang at once, but have since learned there is a better way. With a swamped barrel, this step is even more time saving- Not a hole, probably a spot of inletting black? That build was many years ago.
  5. E

    First build thread 45 cal flintlock

    Inletting the barrel sans a tang/breech asssembly- Nice bearing surface for the barrel, and easy to do. Now the tang/breech assembly gets inlet, this is a Patent Breech build from years ago, but you get the idea. Pulling the tang is part of the process.
  6. E

    First build thread 45 cal flintlock

    What just happened is you dipped your tang/barrel junction. Your tang has that profile because you started mating the two surfaces with a missed step. This can be fixed, but don't file any more metal from the tang. Tangs are cheap ($9.00) and you might want to start fresh with a new tang and...
  7. E

    First build thread 45 cal flintlock

    Is that stock pre-inlet for the lock? No one buys a Siler lock kit to save money! :haha: Anyway, you have your work cut out for you to a degree that you might not realize, but it can be done.
  8. E

    First build thread 45 cal flintlock

    I would eliminate the angled "sides" and go with a classic flush fitting tang IMO, and I get the desired tang curvature before filing........saves about 2 hours and fifty minutes! :grin: No worries, the time spent is all good. To add: Since you might not get a perfect curve, don't thin the...
  9. E

    trigger plate installation

    I will sometimes leave the lockplate in to protect the inletting when in a vise, and yes, my screen name is a play on that fact :grin:
  10. E

    Number 3!

    The light wood and the dark furniture really look sharp! :thumbsup:
  11. E

    trigger plate installation

    You can see the little shelf that I filed on the forward part of the triggerguard. This is also another trick on how to hold a triggerguard for filing without damaging anything- I just used a piece of scrap wood.
  12. E

    trigger plate installation

    I file a "shelf" on the triggerguard, and butt the shoulder against the triggerplate. This keeps everything inlet nicely. You might have noticed quite a few buils where the trigger is very far forward in the triggerguard bow......this is done often to hide tang screw "mistakes"! Typically...
  13. E

    Squirrel Rifle what style and caliber?

    I like a simple and robust squirrel rifle myself. My latest build is .36 cal. (waiting on the barrel)with a straight 13/16 octagonal barrel. I will leave it 42" or I might chop it around 40". The stock is "semi-fancy" Maple, a little bit of curl here and there. I am going to strategically mix...
  14. E

    Repairing a cracked stock

    Totally fixable. I use the really "thin" Acraglas (Brownell's)epoxy for repairs such as this. Not only is it thin, it has a nice long work time, so you can really get the repair saturated. I did notice there appears to be a small chunk missing, but with that straight grain stock, you can...
  15. E

    If no Black Powder then what?

    If you can't source BP, then Flintlocks are not for you. Shoot a caplock. I can't purchase BP around these parts, so I purchase my stuff in bulk (TOTW) and shell out the $400.00..............no way around it. If you are limited to substitutes (for whatever reason) then you are not going to...
  16. E

    Step by Step - WHEELLOCK

    Really good work- I just might have to try a Wheellock someday. Your work is truly impressive. :hatsoff:
  17. E

    swamped barrels on Tennessee rifles

    On my current "Tennessee" I am using a 13/16" straight GM- I have both, and each has it's place. The swamped has balance, but the straight has a steady hang. For my latest squirrel/rabbit gun, I decided to go straight. I also wanted a "quicker" build, and wanted to keep it as simple as...
  18. E

    Finished Snaphaunce lock-

    Thanks, all- The castings came from The Rifle Shoppe, and the quality was superb. I might add that the TRS guru (forget the name) was always more than willing to give me guidance on building this arm to historical correctness. The "tiny" wrist had me quaking in my boots, but I was assured...
  19. E

    Finished Snaphaunce lock-

    Some full shots. The figure of the Walnut shows a better here. The lock panel below the lock is narrow, really narrow! This is correct, but I had to be ultra careful when handling the stock for other operations. The point of balance is the rear part of the forend. The Colerain barrel is an...
  20. E

    Finished Snaphaunce lock-

    The caliber is 75, and I am going to use it as a Fowler. Ramrod diameter is 5/16, it looks better with a "skinny" rod, 3/8" looks out of place, plus the old ones I copied had skinny rods. The stock is very comfortable, and my pull length is 14 inches- I started testing fit at 15.5" and just...
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