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Not quite. Lead-tin solder is, well, for soldering. However, "silver solder" usually refers to a silver brazing alloy and actually does contain silver (hence the price!) The only difference between soldering and brazing is the temperature range, so it gets confusing sometimes.

I picked up a Uberti 1862 Pocket Police, and while taking it apart, I happened to notice the little roller on the hammer was not turning. At first, I thought the roller might just be gummed-up, but no, it was loose but wouldn't turn. After punching out the pin, surprisingly it was stuck...

In addition to the above chart, there's also this online calculator: https://www.dillonprecision.com/sight-correction-calculator.html

The safest way is to extract the extra ball with a ball-puller or wood screw. Next best is to remove the nipple and punch it out from the rear. Shooting it risks bulging the barrel.

I can only get CCI caps. As has been said, the CCI #11's are best. Their #10's are too small in diameter to properly fit any nipple I've come across.

Was that video written by the same person who said the Continental Army "manned the air, rammed the ramparts, and took over the airports" during the Revolutionary War? 😁

Ooooh, a fowler would be so tempting, but on the other hand, fusil de chasse's keep calling to me. Decisions, decisions... 🤔

With the two kits I have assembled, there was no lube on the trigger parts either, but the locks had some kind of silicone grease. The inside of the barrels had a brownish-black coating for rust prevention. I agree, their frizzen springs are too strong.

There's a calculation for minimum thread depth, which for 1/4-28 at 75% thread depth gave me .146" of thread (about 4 threads). This is just a guideline when using similar strength materials, like steel-into-steel in this case. If this were for the space shuttle we'd have to use a more...

I haven't had a chance to fire this one yet, but I do have a Traditions Kentucky rifle as well. They have some downsides: - The frizzen spring is stronger than it has to be. - There was a noticeable casting seam on the frizzen where it rides on the spring that should be smoothed. - The hammer...

Thank you! I had a lot of fun experimenting with this one

We can't let this thread die! LOL I finished my Frontier flintlock kit. This is one of those kits that comes in a clear plastic shell. Well of course that allows little dings and dents to happen, so there are some small dings in the wood I missed, oops. The under barrel rib was too short so I...

@Rich44 's way works well. With the grip frame taken off, the frame clamps nicely in a vise. I like to verify the arbor is pointing straight up with a square. Truth be told, I had a bit of a boo-boo on the drill press and the spotting drill went a little bit off-center, so I changed tack and...

Inserting the wedge for one, and also recoil. The first is why Mr. De Land was talking about using feeler gauges to set the clearance. The second is why some guns beat up their wedges, don't hold point of aim, don't hold cylinder clearance, etc.

The other option is to drill and tap the end of the arbor 1/4-28* for a flat-tipped set screw. This allows you to fine tune how far the wedge goes in. It's important that the hole be well centered on the arbor. I had to do this on my Uberti 1860 or the wedge would bottom out without...

How? As I wrote last time this came up, the thinnest section of the arbor is at the wedge cutout. Adding a 1/4-28 thread at the end doesn't change that. If the arbor is going to fail, it'll fail at the cutout whether it's been threaded or not. Now, if someone used a 3/8" thread maybe you...

I can't answer your question properly, but identifying the thread would be the best first step. In the meantime, try this link for replacement Starr nipples: https://www.ssfirearms.com/proddetail.asp?prod=JA192

Soaking in a mild lye solution should soften the paint (assuming it is paint) so it can be removed with a toothbrush. Even Purple Power spray is strong enough if soaked for several days. Note that ABS plastic has only a "fair" resistance to sodium hydroxide solutions, however, with similar...

Although it wouldn't be my preferred way, a rubber strap wrench might work to hold the barrel (I kind of doubt it if it's that tight though).