If it's a straight barrel with no taper just turn it around and inlet the muzzle end towards the breach.
Removing breech plug...barrel keeps spinning.
- Thread starter bjarard
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You are going to need a different vice. You will likely snap that ‘patternmakers’ off at the knees so to say. It’s just not made to handle the torque that may be required to remove a breech plug.
As others have asked, what is the urgency to remove the plug? Only asking before you mar up the breech plug and destroy your vice.
As others have asked, what is the urgency to remove the plug? Only asking before you mar up the breech plug and destroy your vice.
I agree with @SDSmlf above points, a different vice, and,,
Why do you need to remove it?
If it's really necessary,, I'd sweat solder a long thin piece of steel to the bottom of the barrel, at least as long as your vise jaws.. when your done doing whatever your trying to do, then just remove the piece, and the solder and polish the steel barrel again.
And don't forget to put a witness mark on there someplace.
But honest, why are you removing it?
In the picture , it appears as though you have a Round tapered barrel. The vise jaws are not encountering the whole surface. wrap the barrel with elecrical insulation tape and pull it tight . tape should be thicker on the non-breach side to be level.then put in vice, might need a 12" cheater and a mallet..... it should come out, assuming you have had a good rust solvent soaking in there, since this thread started.......Be Safe >>>>Wally
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You would need a heavy duty vise with aluminum grips or shims and a crescent wrench, it should come off easily.
I would suggest contacting rice barrel co for help.
I would suggest contacting rice barrel co for help.
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Is removing a breech plug essential for a kit build, no its not however its very useful if you can do it.
Like much in this world, you need the right knowledge and tools to get the job done.
Or you’ll end up with a marred up breech area.
I regularly take my breechplugs off , but i can do it rather easily with my tool sets without harming the gun.
For the novice, I’d recommend leaving it be until someone has walked you through the process side by side.
While it seems so simple as unscrewing a bolt, it is generally not.
Oh and a brand new breech plug on a new barrel shouldn’t have to soak in Kroil or transmission fluid, thats’ just a waste of good oil.
if it has not been said, if you do get it out coat it with never seize .
Yep, best reply yet. My thoughts also. Why remove?
flatcreek
40 Cal
They took shop class out of most schools, at least here in the east.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
I'll comment. I have built 100's of muzzleloading guns. I ALWAYS remove the breech plug several times during the building process. First to inlet the barrel. Second to install the vent liner. You're going to need a stouter vice. Wood blocks to hold the barrel will probably be required. Rosin will have to be used. Slide the barrel into the vise until only enough of the breech sticks out to get a wrench on the plug. You may need a cheater bar to get it out.
Removing breech plugs isn't hard, you just need to know how to do it.
I have been known to call barrel makers and ask them why they need to use such a tight fit for plugs. They don't need to be that tight. After dealing with barrels like this I always use a tap and die to clean the threads before reassembly.
Removing breech plugs isn't hard, you just need to know how to do it.
I have been known to call barrel makers and ask them why they need to use such a tight fit for plugs. They don't need to be that tight. After dealing with barrels like this I always use a tap and die to clean the threads before reassembly.
Mgbruch
40 Cal
What Mike just said. I haven't cleaned the threads with tap and die... haven't thought of it. But I'm going to start.
When I ordered my Rice barrel, I specified for them to loosen the breech plug before shipping, as they have a reputation for being crazy tight. Then when I received the barrel, I simply filed down the plug a touch, to a reasonable snugness. Easy-peasy.
Using the wooden blocks with rosin is almost a must but you can get away without buying a vice by clamping the blocks with your barrel in them to your bench if you have room.
Airplanes2
32 Cal
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Wrap a piece of flat gum rubber around the barrel before clamping barrel in the vise. The 5” diameter rubber disc can be found in kitchen supply store or on-line. They’re great for removing stubborn car oil filters.
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Are there any flats on the barrel? Sometimes you can bear against those with brass shim stock in a vice.
Agree you will need a heftier vice.
Agree you will need a heftier vice.
If it's a round tube you need 2 VEE blocks.Either buy or make. The VEE needs to be wide enough to grip the tube without meetingt face to face when tightened in a vice and as long as your vice jaws. There will be enough slack in the vice body to allow for the barrel taper. For the plug find a short piece of steel the dia of the tube. Cut two flats on one end for a spanner and a slot across the other to fit tight on the hook on the plug. Job done and you have tool for the future..If you can't do this yourself find a local friendly model engineer.. O.D.
Tyler L
40 Cal
Although it wouldn't be my preferred way, a rubber strap wrench might work to hold the barrel (I kind of doubt it if it's that tight though).
A tapered, full-round barrel makes this job a challenge. It sure would be easier with an octagonal breech. I would strive for as much contact between the gripping surface (pads, blocks, or whatever) and the barrel as possible. If pressure from the vise jaws is concentrated too much on a small area of the barrel, there is some risk of deforming the barrel.
I would agree that modern barrel makers put breech plugs in unnecessarily tight. I have read some 18th and 19th century writings that mention “unbritching” a barrel. It was evidently not that big of a deal, back in the day, but I doubt we’ll change the minds of barrel makers now.
Good luck with this!
Notchy Bob
I would agree that modern barrel makers put breech plugs in unnecessarily tight. I have read some 18th and 19th century writings that mention “unbritching” a barrel. It was evidently not that big of a deal, back in the day, but I doubt we’ll change the minds of barrel makers now.
Good luck with this!
Notchy Bob
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removing the breech plug on a full round tapered barrel requires a good vise and aluminum shims…. And some workouts with bicep curls, brench press and shoulder presses to help.
The aluminum shim in the picture is a cheap piece of aluminum 1/8 thick from Home Depot i bent it to fit this navy arms charleville barrel.
The aluminum keeps the round barrel stationary and from being marred, nothing you can’t get out with some 320 paper and a few swipes.
If you’re not a strong fella, turn the barrel turn the vise on its opposite side so that you can get your legs under it in a squat position and push up with your legs and shoulders, like a hack squat (if you’re a lifter).
*NEVER grip the tang with the wrench, it could break, grip the bolster.
The aluminum shim in the picture is a cheap piece of aluminum 1/8 thick from Home Depot i bent it to fit this navy arms charleville barrel.
The aluminum keeps the round barrel stationary and from being marred, nothing you can’t get out with some 320 paper and a few swipes.
If you’re not a strong fella, turn the barrel turn the vise on its opposite side so that you can get your legs under it in a squat position and push up with your legs and shoulders, like a hack squat (if you’re a lifter).
*NEVER grip the tang with the wrench, it could break, grip the bolster.
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