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Been a gunsmith for almost 50 years, and yes you have to remove the breach to get out stuck round. Just no way around it. Usually not to hard, but it can be a pain and can be hard to non mar the barrel. But a gun is made to use and things happen.

Kroll works great, and also diesel fuel works even a touch better and even better if you can get some bio diesel.

They mess with ya even before they make dem black funny guns.

I have seen German military powder in VERY hot machine gun in 9mm that is to hot for handguns that looked like the old black diamond powder that was on display at the old Lewis and Clark fort on the Oregon coast before that replica fort burnt

I carry my flintlock pistols in a short rounded holster like carrer that has a high side to cover the frizzen and has a thong to retain said gun, much like the thongs on a western holster.

45 years of gunsmithing, and I use both. Either can be a wood or metal destroyer if used wrong.

I make springs for some folks that can't find a spring. And it seems that half the time I end up using some kind of reworked vice grips. Funny, but some times you just can't get a spring vice to get in a tight setting. I have been making springs for over 40 years and still am learning. And if...

The longest shot that I've ever had to take with a front stuffer was a just a tad over 70 yards, and that with a .45 caliber flintlock and 80 grains.It did the job, but I prefer at least .50 caliber and up when using a round ball. Really like my .58 using 100 grains. I didn't do this, but I...

The gun works is a great shop to visit, and the help is also very good. David is also a good shooter and the barrel maker Dave really makes a great barrel over in the barrel shop. I have built a good many guns, and most the barrels and part came from the gun works.

This true.

I myself have added a few years on an have had a few bad injuries that made me like lighter guns. And have cut down several of my guns to make them easier to handle, and at the same time easier to use in heavy timber. And they still shoot straight.

Cast yet on, get an old cast iron pot and a way to heat it(small gas or electric heat). A table spoon with wood handles attached and a mould. You can buy all kinds of new gear, ,but you great granddady only had a pot and small ladle to go with his mould.

Try using natural lubes, or moose milk. I've noticed that moose milk makes my patches act looser than with bore butter while using the same thickness of patch. And some times you just need to fire several dozen rounds to just help smooth out the barrel. Have a rifle totally built for scratch...

Call the Gun Works 541-741-4118 in Springfield Oregon, last I looked they still had them

I use to melt bore butter in the microwave and lube up the patches, but switched to moose milk after seeing bore butter patches smoldering in the grass. I don't want no fire starting by me in warm weather. Still use bore butter in the winter. Several replies posted that have good advice.

Normally I favor no tacks, but traded in for a trade gun flintlock that some

Peening is what I was taught by a master builder, and he had a tool he made just to do that job.

I'm another shooter that has a can or two of that powder, it's not quite as good as goex. But it will get the job done. And it is better than elephant powder, and I use all of them for plinking.

Smoke The mould or use some granite spray after the mould is warmed up

Years back,like 40plus. Got a sears band saw new, and after doing a lot of remodeling to it, it worked pretty good. But if you aren't good at doing some needed modifications you would be better off with some other make. But at the same time this saw has been in use since I got it in 1975 and and...