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There used to be an outfit that advertised on the Forum for making unbreakable or indestructible ramrods. They were wood with a steel inner core. I think I need one, having destructed two of the very delicate ramrods for my 40 flinter. Does anyone have contact info for this outfit? Thanks!

A while ago I was gifted a lefty flintlock minus lock, screws and side plate. I made up cereal box cutouts to fit the lock and side plate inlets. Sent these to Track of the Wolf, who sent back a lock, side plate and screws that were pretty close, needing only a little wood removal for the lock...

After three rifles and a fowler, I got smart and used the maple slabs used to package the parts sets as stain test strips. Wrote the stain combinations on the wood, then applied the stains, then a coat of final finish over half the three inch long stain panel. Now have about twenty combinations.

On removing a pinned barrel from a stock that required a major repair I noted a good deal of rust had formed between barrel and forestock. I refinished the barrel before reinstallation, including rubbing a heavy coat of beeswax into the warmed metal. Had to replace the vent liner about five...

I have seen stainless barrels for modern rifles "blued", but the process is multi-step and a bit complex. Clean stainless is copper plated, then the copper is iron plated, then the usual modern hot tank bluing is applied.

I put together a Traditions Crockett 32 kit that I was gifted by a rifle club friend. After a while I thought I had been cursed by the gift. Some parts were good- lock, barrel and trigger. Trigger guard must have been intended for another model of rifle, too short to fit the inlets. Replacement...

At a time when all I had on hand was 2F I made up some priming powder by placing a teaspoon at a time between two sheets of typing paper and gently rolling a glass mayonnaise jar over the top fifteen or twenty times, from different angles. The resulting powder flowed through a brass priming...

Cowboy, a friend did just what you describe, about five years or more ago, except he popped off his front lug. Having had good experiences with Loctite 380 Black Max adhesive, we filed and sanded barrel and lug surfaces very smooth, degreased several times, applied a thin layer and clamped. Cold...

When I was a very active NRA and CMP Highpower Rifle competitor I would take my gear along on business if there was a weekend match within a hundred miles of my engagement. Some people take their golf clubs and get in a round of golf, I got in a lot more rounds. I found I could get all the...

When you get done with all the rubbing down with wet worn out blue jean fabric, re-applying LMF chemicals, and finally- after 5-7 sessions, neutralizing with baking soda solution and rinsing, let it sit for a few days. My procedure at that point is to heat the barrel and other parts with a hair...

Every time I polish a lock I'm glad I have an assortment of 4 inch sections of dowels 1/8 to 1/2 inch diameter. The other thing I find useful are popsicle sticks, which variously get whittled into points, chisels and blades. Finally, silicon carbide paper seems to be best. Good light is...

Being a bit of a contrarian, I have had excellent results using wood floor wax liberally applied by rag to a barrel heated with spouse's hair dryer. Rubbed it in hard. Seems to seal well, water and cleaning solutions just bead up on the surface.

A good supply of "patience pills" is a good thing to have on hand. What I mean is, go slowly, don't rush it, take your time to work the metal in the best directions. The process will go better if you have some wood jaws for your vise. Two files I like to get new for each rifle are a fine round...

Best advice I received from a local master builder: Draw filing a barrel is easy, because you get to practice on the lower flats. Do this every time! When you feel like really leaning on the chisel and moving some wood, set the tool down and take the dog for a walk. When sanding, always use...

This is not my first rifle building rodeo. On previous guns I fitted the breech plugs myself, using files and blue spotting compound until the fit was close, then did final adjustments with stones for a smooth fit. Always coated the threads copiously with anti-seize compound before final...

Many thanks for the many replies to my dilemma. Will mix up some of the ATF & acetone witches brew to soak inside and out. Will also get a "BMFH" to use on the pipe extension as spouse applies propane torch heat about an inch inboard from where my measurements indicate the plug threads end...

Recently rec'd a new kit from a reputable supplier. It has a Green Mountain barrel, with the breech plug installed. I need to get it out for two reasons, firstly to set the barrel down and back squarely against the wood, and secondly I want to file a taper on the lug of the plug. I can't get...

What with being confined to the house- I'm in the at risk groups- I have progressed steadily in putting together a southern mountain -type rifle, in the plainest piece of maple I have ever seen. That's on purpose, I asked for plain wood with an eye toward trying faux striping such as Leman used...

I had to deal with this on a lefty Lyman flinter. Just lived with it until I learned to joys of inletting black on wood, then thought why not try blacking the edges of the pan and stoning the underside of the frizzen to detail seat it on the pan? The blacking transfers to the high spots on the...

Had the 50 cal barrel on my 1980 or so vintage TC Renegade kit gun redone by Hoyt to 58 cal. Wanted more thump down range for elk. Got more thump on both ends. Reworked barrel is much more accurate than the original, and cleans up quickly.