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A tight patch, oiled and rolled in valve grinding compound. If you go in with a hone and are not VERY carefull, you WILL have an egg shaped barrel, It is the same as honeing an engine cylinder.

I am not an expert, maybe he has a Lehman? They are very similar looking.

Does it have a buttplate, or is it just painted wood? The plainsman was painted if my memory is right.

Your last picture looks like the fly is holding the hammer back, half cock should be the next notch up.

If the half cock notch is damaged, it would change the entire geometry. A properly positioned half cock would permit the use of a longer flint, thereby putting the screw farther away. If it were mine, I would get someone who knows locks to look at it BEFORE you start bending things.

I have 2 flinters, one is the .45 Pedersoli Pennsylvania, the other is a custom built .62 fullstock lehman that was built from a TOTW kit back in the late 80's. Are either one of them an accurate representation of anything? I'm thinking the Lehman mabey, but I doubt the Pedersoli. The Pedersoli...

The biterness of poor quality, remains long after the sweet taste of low price.

He better start saving now for the next one.

How fast is the twist? Faster than 1-48 and you might require a conical.

I have an old L&R lock that the frizzen will not open all the way unless the flint is almost touching it, as much as an 1/8 away and it doesn't open. It does fire every time though.

I have a .54 capper, The bigger ball will hold energy better at the expense of more powder and recoil. 100 yards is a long way with a ball.

Heat goes up, I would cone the outside if nothing else. The hole on my flinter is also a bit high and a little forward, but it works flawlessly.

I have an OLD Lyman .610 mold that the sprue looks like the base of a mountain. I don't roll them or cut them down, I load sprue up and they shoot fine. I sometimes think we make it to complicated, trying to fix something that's not broke.

Try Dixie Gun Works

I took a doe last year with a .62 1-66 flinter, I was only using 80 gr.2f. It took out a rib going in and came out the center of the off shoulder. PLENTY of power, 340 gr. ball

Not a shotgun, but my .54 rifle would hangfire everytime with 777 or pyro. This is a Green Mtn. barrel, 100% ignition now with real 2f, I also am using stainless hot shot nipples.

That has a 1-24 twist, It should really shine with a minnie or maxi.

I do not have a removable vent, just a drilled hole.

I have seen pictures of old tools for coneing the inside of a barrels touch hole. I was wondering if they ever coned the outside. I ask because my flinter only has a drilled hole in it, and I was wondering if coning the outside would speed it up.

With the right load, Our guns should be capable of 2-3" or less at 100 yd's. Our handicap is the sights.