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Twist rate also depends on caliber. 1-48 twist for a 32 cal is about right for RB and not so good for conical. The larger the caliber, the les twist you need to stabilize the projectile and in turn of coarse the smaller the caliber, the more twist you need.

I have yet to figure out why salt in lube and corrosive caps always comes up and have yet to receive a good answer. Powder in itself is corrosive and basically has salts in it so why does it matter if there is a small amount in lube or corrosive caps? It all has to be cleaned out in the end anyway.

Headshots.

Maybe ask Kimbler what thy recommend.

Any lead that is questionable to me, I do outside and I put the lead in the pot before it starts melting so it gives it a chance to burn off any water it might have.

I'd fill it with water and freeze it. That should force it out.

It has happened to me 2x. First time was many years ago and before internet. I had cleaned some lead with water and didn't know better. Blew all over the kitchen and me. I still don't know how I came out of it without getting any bad burns. Second time was a few years ago in my garage. It was...

Not the best but it does work.

Overseas companies have stated thy will up production to help. That will of course take a while. You can use duplex loads to stretch your powder.

Brain fart moment, got it backwards. Or upside down.

If you are that low on real black I would just use 5 gr but if it isn't working as well as you like, try 10 gr.

A lot of good info here. Probably overwhelming. If the powder shoots good in your other gun, the powder is fine. Keep in mind a new gun should be shooting high. They make the sights that way for solid sights so you can adjust them by filing down the front sight when you find where you want to be...

Some do. Are you using like 5 gr in the barrel before you load the Pyrodex? It needs 5 or 10 gr in the breech to help set off the Pyro as well as in the pan. Can't tell for sure but you hesitation firing is most likely the Pyrodex.

Not all moulds do good at the same temp. Like Grizz stated it's a smaller mould and less lead to keep the mould hot so you may also need to cast faster. If I'm having trouble with a mould I crank the heat up all the way and as I get it working, I gradually turn the heat down until I get to where...

They don't read correct because of reflection. You can float a small piece of dark steel on top of the lead to get a more accurate temp.

I've never seen or heard of one before. What is it for exactly?

Gorrila glue does have a non-expanding formula.

Remove the nipple and get as much powder in as you can. Then replace the nipple and fire it. Repeat if necessary. If it's a flinter it will take a little more to get the powder in but basically the same idea.

Crisco, not the best but will work. I started using Crisco. There is an infinite number of things to use. Spit works great but only for short term, not really for hunting because it will dry out.

There is a 32 pistol bullet that is hollow based that might work. I thought about giving them a try but never got around to it.