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BTW .. a friend told me roll caps don’t leave the red residue but prime all does …

Nice write up !

Thanks … are you using just one roll cap over the bit of black ?

Do roll cap home made caps leave a red residue like Prime All caps?

Good point 😀

there is something so attractive about these guns .. they have a special mystique if that isn’t too fancy a word … Does your loading lever drop after shooting … if so do you just leave it down until the cylinder is empty?

Good call … using digital calipers I got more like .715 on the cylinder bore barrels so the .715 balls I tried were understandably tight … some dropped down fine but others did not seem to fit. I did not push it because I felt there was no need to end up with a stuck ball thread😀 It seems the...

I think about the times these guns ( circa Civil War for me) came from. I think they had water (of dubious quality) , soap again of dubious quality / consistency , fire & I imagine rags & oil/grease of some sort but would think these could have been somewhat precious. I’d guess heated...

I like “fill to the top” …. Rather than measure … I guess the ball compresses everything enough to get the right fit ….I have to eat more fries to try the ketchup bottle idea ..

Would you expect that size still might need some ramming to get it down especially after shooting a bit? … I have a nice strong hickory ramrod with a 12 gauge tulip that should work fine .. Right now I have over powder and cushion wads on hand to try.

With Cream of Wheat over powder to bring ball to top of chamber ?

I have a newer Pedersoli Coach gun sxs . I wanted to try round balls without patch, just an overshot card. It’s .720 cylinder bore according to Pedersoli. Can you recommend a size ball to use?

“I like to use WD40 or rubbing alcohol to displace the remaining water in the bore. Moose Milk is any of various mixes of a water soluble oil and water.” the barrel is pretty hot when I’m done with a rinse and I use a 1 to 7 Ballistol/ water patch afterward … I do use sometimes a heat...

yes .. I put the nipple end in a coffee can full of hot soapy water and run the cotton mop in and out several times , maybe a bore brush then do the same with clean water. Dry it on the outside with a towel and run some moose milk and dry patches and then a slightly soaked straight Ballistol...

Great … thanks a lot … that was what I was hoping to hear …

With the model you have, I assume I’d have to take the Sharps Carbine off the sled to drop the lever to reload. Would you think this is right? I think I figured the lever drops 4” from its normal position & 1” below the bottom rear of the stock.

That’s sounds like it might be pretty thin , does it stay in the grooves or pile up some between them as mine does? I’d like it to stay neatly in the grooves but it seems to cool/harden quickly once it gets on the lead.

I love watching the YouTube videos of shooting Sharps long range at steel. The wait between the shot and the hit on the steel is amazing.

So for the percussion Sharps shooters , what lube and how do you apply it to your bullets. I’ve been using a mix of beeswax and olive oil with some parrafin liquified then applied to the grooves with a little hobby paint brush. Also does anyone have anything to say about their use of loose...

I’ve found both Larry & Charlie to be very helpful on this journey. At what distance do you generally shoot your Sharps Carbines? I’m just using the 50 yard target at this point. BTW, thanks to everyone for your thoughts . I love reading everything about the Sharps rifles.