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Dave, I’ve read where bees wax and linseed oil was burned in on iron as a type of finish, but I’ve only read about it used on things like wheel irons and carriages not guns. I was convinced that this was the metal finish most used, so it must have been done on guns… until i viewed original guns...

Agree with Rich, a lot of original guns have the appearance of being browned or darkened due to the build up over time of what we call patina. Rust browning would not have been a priority for gun builders in colonial America, the natural aging of wrought iron would produce a dark coloring that...

I’ve restored a few 1803’s, there have been many of these showing up in auctions. None of the barrels were browned, nor the ribs or undersides of the barrels. The Springfield and Harper’s ferry armories were experimenting with metal finishes at the, so the tech was in its infancy here in the...

Nice work

He was ok with it, get over it

There are a few approaches to cleaning these. Some people remove the barrel and some do not, I’m one of those who do. I just find it much easier to remove the barrel and clean it. The downside to removing the barrel is that the under lugs can wear out and the pins can loosen, In the general...

Cool project, but curious as to how you came up with the name of it. British Light Sea Service Dragoon Pistol.. you took almost every name in the British pistol index. Now if you had calle dit a “Land Pattern” Sea Service Pistol that would be hysterical 🤣

I use picture frame wire to hold the lugs.

Forgot to mention. so if you’re using heavy gun grease on a lock, that may need to be cleaned out from the internals from time to time. I don’t use heavy grease, a lot of reinactors use TOO MUCH grease, I’ve seen as much as half a tube of Hopps gun grease on the inside of the lock. Too much...

For myself, it depends on the lock. If the pan is detachable, I often remove the pan, frizzen and leaf spring to clean out that area but generally nothing else. For locks with integral pans i don’t take them apart, other than the top jaw and jaw screw. The only time i take my locks apart is...

Tru-Oil needs to be applied in very thin coats, or you’ll end up with a maple syrup varnish. I’ve had a lot of success putting on true oil with Magic Erasers and then rubbing it back with rotten stone after it dries.

That’s really awesome Rich, is this a brownells item ?

Loyalist arms is a very respectable company, they follow through and do have a good quality control system in place. I know the owners well, in my regiment we have three or four of theirs, if i have a question about one of their products, such as steel types or grades they have the info readily...

Screw making is a very handy skill to have. A lot of the factor screws we get are made from very low grade steel and just don’t last.

I can help with middle band pm me

Photobombed myself.

That’s a rough looking bore Dave. It’s typical of what i see here, especially on older Italian and Japanese made reproductions. I now often recommend that some in such poor condition get a liner installed or send it to a barrel guy like Hoyt to have it reamed out. The last one Bobby did for me...

The tumbler has only a single edge / notch to catch the sear, half cock is a dog lick catch in the front of the cock that swings through the lock plate.

First, i respect your safety first approach, always important. Second, most of this forum is made up of hobbyists, not engineers or barrel makers. While they’re a few on here that i would call experts, I would not expect them to give you advice. Lastly, Why in the world would you ask anyone...

Ouch ! That sounds like bamboo torture. Touch hole picks i use a paper clip, those repro vent picks are often too large. I was at the range this weekend shooting a 56-50 Spencer with high capacity loads, the fell next to me was shooting a 22 rifle and got in the eye from a shell ejection...