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I have a new in the box, unused set of three checkering tools by Frank Mittermeier which I believe I got from Brownell's years ago. If you might be interested in them just pm me for price and pictures.

I fire practically all my flintlock firearms using paper cartridge tubes. Ahead of time fill the tube with your main powder charge and add 5 grains for priming. Rip off the top of the cartridge and pour your priming charge from it up to the level you want in your pan. Shut the frizzen. Then...

And what is Yelp!

That's not helpful!!!

I have 44 Maxi-Balls for sale. They are 400 gr. Leftover from when I was shooting my CVA mountain rifle years ago. $25 which includes shipping.

I strongly agree! Buy an original from some of the major firearms auction companies like Rock Island Auction, etc. You can get them at about the price of a modern custom build and they are way cooler. I've bought several. Some with spring bayonets and half cock safeties which you will never...

Does it spark well?

Many thanks Dale! But it sounds like the best solution to cleaning a Nock Volley Gun is to never fire it in the first place!! LOL

I recently acquired one of these Nock Volley guns that was probably built by Jess Melot. Plan to shot it soon but I would really like someone who has one of these to tell me the best way to clean it. I don't see how it would be possible to clean the touch holes connected to the center barrel...

Hi all! I just bought a Nock Volley gun made by The Rifle Shoppe. Have not fired it yet but making a loading block is something I probably need to do!

I'm thinking that's a Fusil Fin kit from R.E. Davis. I have one of the earlier ones that looks identical but the barrel, lock and side-plate has a bare steel finish. Mine has a 50" barrel which was available on the earlier kits. RE Davis still sells the kits in either brass or steel finish...

Unfortunately I believe these are "flashers" and not a solid white light.

I've looked everywhere for a white one but that must be a color they no longer make.

So what do you find is the best color to use? Red, green or yellow?? Thanks.

While Civil War reenacting I have had to dry up to 10 tents after rainy weather. I have a deck and hang all the tents open over the railing. I can tell you it can be a lot of work. Let them dry for at least a day in the sun.

I think the finer the powder for wheellock priming the better. I use "Null B" grade of powder for priming. It is noticeably finer than 4F. You can also grind 4F (or any grade) powder with a mortar and pestle and get it to be pretty close to Null B.

I talked to Jack Garner at the CLA Show last August so I'm pretty sure he is still around.

Is that with a patch or not? Thanks.

I've always had a good experience. Track of the Wolf and Muzzleloader Builders Supply is where I order 99% of my stuff from.

Anybody know someone who makes custom flints that you can order from. The geometry of my lock requires flints longer than they are wide which are really hard to find. Most are kind of square.