Which Prime Powder 2F,3F,4F...Wheelock

[XVIIc Wheelock]

Objective reduce (impossible to eliminate) prime powder burn build up (mixed with pyrite dust) from interfering with the locks' wheel rotation. Only prime on barrel side of the wheel helps to a degree. Does using 2F/3F instead of 4F make a difference? Does B/P manufacturer or prime quantity make a difference? I can typically get 14-15 shots before really noticing an obvious slowdown in lock time, then tilting the lock facing down...a quick squirt of brake cleaner behind the wheel (keeping it off the stock and from behind the lock) temporarily helps to continue without removing the lock for a deep clean/lube. Other suggestions?

 

[Erwan]

Using 2 or 3Fg in the pan/wheel will also let tracks of burned powder and certainly more than the 4Fg: the more the powder is big, the more the residues will be consequent. You anyway get residues on the pyrite and the wheel...

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Using 2 or 3Fg in the pan/wheel will also let tracks of burned powder and certainly more than the 4Fg: the more the powder is big, the more the residues will be consequent.

Doubtful, as the bigger combustive by-products are less likely to slip behind the wheel IMHO, but one's mileage may vary ...

My personal wheelie record is 28 for 29-shots in a row and there was a ~25-minute pause in the action (knife & hawk throws, atlatl, etc., and then the long walk back to the last woodswalk station) before that last shot for score. And it was the pan cover sticking that inhibited good ignition, in fact the cover would barely more it was so gunked up with 'dry' crud. Note, there's more slop/space under the pan cover than there is for space astride the wheel, besides the fast that pan cover is directly exposed to the priming charge, the wheel indirectly.

Here's what I do:

• Only prime the barrel side of the wheel, and carefully
• I use 4Fg priming powdah and see no reason for me to change
• Remove and diamond hone/polish the underside and bearing surfaces of the pan cover
• Wipe the pyrite occasionally with a patch/rag or such wet with alcohol

 

[XVIIc Wheelock]

Doubtful, as the bigger combustive by-products are less likely to slip behind the wheel IMHO, but one's mileage may vary ...

My personal wheelie record is 28 for 29-shots in a row and there was a ~25-minute pause in the action (knife & hawk throws, atlatl, etc., and then the long walk back to the last woodswalk station) before that last shot for score. And it was the pan cover sticking that inhibited good ignition, in fact the cover would barely more it was so gunked up with 'dry' crud. Note, there's more slop/space under the pan cover than there is for space astride the wheel, besides the fast that pan cover is directly exposed to the priming charge, the wheel indirectly.

Here's what I do:

• Only prime the barrel side of the wheel, and carefully
• I use 4Fg priming powdah and see no reason for me to change
• Remove and diamond hone/polish the underside and bearing surfaces of the pan cover
• Wipe the pyrite occasionally with a patch/rag or such wet with alcohol

28 shots in a row....amazing! Note: I did notice the pan cover was affected but thought that behind the wheel was more of a delay culprit than pan cover....obviously I was mistaken...will concentrate more on pan cover movement which may have been more of a ignition problem than I thought! I have been wiping the pyrite as norm, but will now take your advice polishing the pan cover bearing surfaces which I have not done! I also s.o.p. pick clean the touch hole after every couple of shots. Makes good sense. Thank you!

Thank you Erwin, I have found that pyrite residue is a direct relationship to the quality of stone as well as its contact surface...much better rounded than a flint-like edge!!!

 

[Erwan]

Doubtful, as the bigger combustive by-products are less likely to slip behind the wheel IMHO, but one's mileage may vary ...

This is also right, never had this kind of problem, but it could happen...

4Fg and manipulating the cover is all I need. But I'm only shooting by fifteen shot series. This is very important the alcohol on an old cloth: I never shoot flint or wheel without a bit of alcohol with me, I always have an old plastic bottle for electronic cigarette products containing alcohol...

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Erwan,
Its good to remember that the old wheellock target arms were mostly fitted with wing nuts on the sidenails, so the lock could easily be removed.
The procedure was to remove and dip in water, shake, dry and replace.

Keith Neil found out the hard way how quickly even a high end lock can seize up after just a shot or two if the weather is right.

 

[LT Joe]

Objective reduce (impossible to eliminate) prime powder burn build up (mixed with pyrite dust) from interfering with the locks' wheel rotation. Only prime on barrel side of the wheel helps to a degree. Does using 2F/3F instead of 4F make a difference? Does B/P manufacturer or prime quantity make a difference? I can typically get 14-15 shots before really noticing an obvious slowdown in lock time, then tilting the lock facing down...a quick squirt of brake cleaner behind the wheel (keeping it off the stock and from behind the lock) temporarily helps to continue without removing the lock for a deep clean/lube. Other suggestions?

I think the finer the powder for wheellock priming the better. I use "Null B" grade of powder for priming. It is noticeably finer than 4F. You can also grind 4F (or any grade) powder with a mortar and pestle and get it to be pretty close to Null B.

 

[PathfinderNC]

It’s funny that this question never came to mind for me. I guess just using 4f comes naturally to me whether flintlock or wheellock.