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I have two lathes and buy my own stuff, can't make a $3 part for $3.

That carving looks more skilfully done than the original just like it is. I can barely carve that well with a 4X Optivisor.

Lacquer peels off, forget it. the Jax has produced some excellent "patina" on many guns shown here in photos. I would just rub it with a dirty patch the first time you clean the bore after shooting black powder and then let the tarnish wear naturally from handling.

Then they ain't worn out yet 😁 I chuck them in my driveway, which is already 1-1/4" screened limestone rock with plenty of flint (about 30%) already in it.

Use 8-32 because it is what most unmentionable, sectional cleaning rod threads have for greater than .22 and through .50-caliber accessories.

I drive farther than across Maryland to buy groceries. I guess it's a matter of perspective.

It's 70/30, good stuff. If you want it a little lighter yellow, harder, and more resistant to tarnishing, add enough zinc (zinc wheelweights are a suitable alloy, or old anode rod pieces) to make it 60/40 or so. Personally I like cartridge brass alloy and use it not only for casting (not gun...

It's thinned polyurethane and has no place on longrifles. That's my opinion, wirth exactly what you paid for it. I prefer a polymerizing oil finish or varnish like linseed or tung oil because it expands as it cures rather than shrinking like urethanes do. Hard, shrinking finishes that dry...

Yes. Not my preferred finish but it has its place.

Needle files and backed sandpaper. They need to be re-defined and deepened a bit, I may have used a safe-edge triangle file to crisp up the edges, can't remember for sure.

If you think that's a pain, do a cast steel one. I spent about 2-3 hours on mine, lots of work perfecting the flats on the bases and defining the steps. I alternated satin Scotch-Brite finish with bright polish on all the brass parts just for the heck of it.

70 grains of 3F is bumping over 2000 fps in mine depending on powder brand. The super-slow twist of the GM SMRs wants more powder and speed for best accuracy, more than you'd normally use in a .45 with patched round ball. I'd like to use 45-50 grains but 65-70 groups better and hits harder.

A little, yes. I didn't expect it to be difficult beyond avoiding flaking out pits in the wavy grain during background removal, and it hasn't been too hard. It would be MUCH mire difficult if I had to invent all the patterns from scratch. I took to heart the often-dispensed advise to...

Thank you for the encouraging words. Thing is, I don't generally care for carved rifles, brass patch boxes, or muzzle caps, so with regard to carving in particular I don't have much desire to master it, just to get through this one without it looking like a drunk monkey beat on it with a...

:doh:

This original rifle never broke through the wrist, but the toe was broken several times and finally lost. The wrist was hollowed out severly for a large double-set trigger. As insurance I put a lollipop tang on it with a bolt passing through to the rear of the trigger plate and also replaced...

It's not internet expertise or whatever reason the self-proclaimed forum gurus want to cite to poo-poo any of the ideas put forth here, it is simply prudence. I doubt the wrist will break during normal, careful use, but set it down too hard one time and it's history. Remember, this is walnut...

That's easy on walnut. Work in small sections, put finish on and lightly work it in wet-or-dry paper of about 320 grit, always sanding with the grain. The sanding dust and finish will make a slurry which you rub into the wood hard with your bare hands (thumbs, fingertips, palms) until it's...

Choot 'em and chut up abowdit.

Nitric acid maybe. Never actually tried it but have dissolved broken steel manifold bolts out of aluminum cylinder heads with potassium alum before.