Super glue works goos for small cracks like that . Put a little on crack , pinch it down quick with a popsickle stick and wipe with damp cloth.Quick and permenant :thumbsup:
Very cool set up ! I made up a pot around 12"dia. x 8" tall for melting scrap lead and wheel wts . Found an old gas burner from a hotplate and fashioned a stand for using propane . I like the idea of using used oil and look forward to seeing more pics when you have a chance ! :hatsoff:
I made the trigger guard, pipes,lugs and sites on this poorboy.
Ive been trying to make more parts rather than buy them .
I've made the triggers, sideplates ,buttplates ,nosecaps on other builds and locks for matchlocks .
I had a Leman turn green after it dried. I read in Buckskin Report to wash it down with vinegar and it turned a medium brown with almost black stripes .
I wont argue with that Ruger had that problem in the cf wheelguns also early on .And my first Remmy58 from Navy Arms in '70's was that way . Ball would dang near skip down the barrel.
Now to problem at hand I would suggest sluggin bore and cylinder to check dimentions and see if that could be...
Ive used both end nippers and side cutters for clippin the sprus off . Use bottem pour and dipper both for casting . With a 75 cal ball and bottem pour if I go too fast the mould gets hot and when droppin ball onto pad it has enough weigth it will egg so I have to pace myself and somtimes fan...
In my Pietta '60 I use .454 over oxyoke wad and 28 grs fffg . Havent shot it over my chrony yet but it is very accurate.
This is a target from '60 Euroarms same load 5.5" barrel at 25' 5 shots online match .
I just run a patch with Kroil down the bore then a couple swabs with dry patch and forget about it . Before I shoot swab with dry patch and go for it .