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The only BP handgun I have is an 1858 army model, so that one's easy. I'm torn between my .50 Isaac Haines and a 24 gauge/.58 Twigg fowler for the long gun. Since we're only allowed to choose one and if it was about subsistence, I guess I'd go with the fowler since I could shoot roundball or...

I don't mind a hijack, especially if it's to give information or confirm that my plans aren't crazy. I can easily find a raw under-rib and make it work (or purchase one for a Great Plains rifle or something) but I'd prefer to either get exactly the right part, to build a wooden under-rib or to...

Thanks, I'll check it out. Also had a tentative offer for the rifle "as is" and I may go that route at some point if I can't find the time to monkey with it soon.

I just picked up a really clean Browning mountain rifle and I'll likely turn around and sell it again, but although it's in really nice condition, it's without an underrib or ramrod for some reason. If anyone has one for sale reasonably, I'd be interested, but if not I'll likely make a wood...

I would presume that you simply have to push the mainspring down so that it's flush against the lock plate.

Among others, Lake Chatuge is there.

Looking forward to seeing the upcoming photos too. I had Mark Wheland inlet a Getz/custom FCI barrel into a similar/really nice curly maple stock blank and I'll be working on it at some point soon and making a TN rifle as well with a Kibler Ketland lock. Really looking forward to seeing my...

Welcome from PA and SC (I have a small winter home in upstate SC).

Definitely the progression for most of us. When I was younger, I shot OK, usually had a target that had a spray of roundballs in and around the bullseye, say 2-3" groups at 25 yards, maybe 6-8" groups at 50 and 10-12" groups at 75. I was fairly conscientious about taking good shots at deer and...

My experience has been the same as yours WITH A .54 RIFLE, but not with a .50 (I've only ever killed one deer with a .45 so my experience there is limited). I think only a couple of the 20-25 that I've killed with a .50 dropped on the spot and I've lost 5 or 6 others over the years even though...

That's how I feel. I really do think that there was a time when I may have been capable of those shots and may have even taken them under absolutely perfect conditions, but those days are past, at least with open sights and no "aids" of any sort.

I've seen you make this statement (or similar) before and I believe you. That said, based on my experience, you've been VERY lucky. Sure, the odds of never losing a deer go way up when you're super conscientious about your shot placement, distance that you'll shoot, etc. etc., but you've...

They aren't cheap, but McMaster Carr is really good for such things as well.

Like you, I had pretty much stopped using FFg powder and had been using FFFg in all of my flintlocks from .36-.54 (still used FFg in my .62 fowler though). I purchased some antique FFg from a guy and just wanted to burn it up and I've been getting really consistent accuracy with it. I shot my...

I once shot a deer at an honest 125-127 yards with a .50 Pedersoli Blue Ridge flintlock rifle. Hit it in the front shoulder and eventually tracked it down and killed it the following day after hours and hours of tracking and hours of suffering on the part of the deer. I was much younger and...

Lots to consider and I agree with most of the others who suggest it can be done, but......Keep in mind that moose are large animals and as such, they have a much larger kill area in the heart/lung region than the typical whitetail deer. I've not killed one, but I've also heard that moose are...

I'm not calling anybody out and I'm sure that the vast majority of guys here are being honest, but I'm one of the guys who hasn't had the same success that all of you have and I'm very conscientious about shot placement and about tracking. Now admittedly, the only deer that I've ever shot at...

I'm curious about your star inlay above the cheekpiece. Did you curve that before inletting or was it thick enough to inlet it flat and file a bit of curve to it? Just always curious how guys do some of this stuff. Looks great, by the way.

This is a .40, for what it's worth. I think it's kind of nifty.

My guess is that if you're interested in historical accuracy that at least the later period for southern rifles involved smaller calibers like .36, .38 and .40. Earlier perhaps larger calibers, but those were also likely more akin to PA or Moravian/hybrid guns than what most of us consider...