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Umm. All rifles hit to a different point of impact from off the bench vs. offhand. Springer air guns are the worst offender, including for some reasons that are not applicable to muzzleloaders, of course. The barrel time in a 40+ inch barrel is significant and the direction the barrel is going...

Yikes. I bought the 12 gauge version in the late 1980s for $150. I put a Pachmeyer recoil pad on it in the early 2000s cuz I use it a lot for upland game and I'm a barbarian. Used equal volumes of shot and pellets with cushion wads sometimes, mostly not. It still works great. I use #2 bismuth on...

Don't know about blanks, never shot them. Or re-enacting either, never done that. But I didn't notice any great accuracy difference between CCI or RWS musket caps.

I've used the CCI re-enactor caps in my Pedersoli enfield repro and a Shiloh percussion sharps. They worked just fine (i.e., made the guns go boom). I prefer the RWS caps because they seem a little hotter. I think CCI just redesigned them so they don't shatter and hit your re-enactor buddy...

I'm a 3 pot guy too. Pure lead, 20-1, and hard stuff for unmentionables.

I believe it's molten sulfur. I see that when shooting Goex powder, don't see the same phenomenon with Swiss powder.

I've used the CCI reenactor caps on Sharps rifles and muzzleloaders. I prefer the RWS, but the CCI's work fine. They were just redesigned to not shatter.

But you need to buy a musket cap nipple. TOTW has them.

I put musket caps on all percussion rifles I own. Mainly because they are easier to handle. I had one on a TC Hawken, since given away, and it worked fine.

I like the chocolate and the powder. I've found Swiss 1.5F to work better in my flintlocks than 3F. With 40 or so inch barrels, it has a lot of time to burn. And I have a lot of 1.5F for my unmentionables, so it's convenient.

If you spray a good amount of WD-40 in the bore and stick in a corner, muzzle down, for a couple of hours, most of the preservative will drain out. And no, I am not a WD-40 salesman. 😝

WD-40 will remove cosmoline, it removes new gun rust preservative just fine. If you want to be dolphin friendly, Simple Green is an effective degreaser.

The wadding for model rockets is just toilet paper soaked in a saturated solution of borax. Sounds like a logistical pain to make. I don't know anything about cannons, but I grok model rockets. They also use cellulose insulation, a.k.a dog barf, for ejection charge shielding to protect the...

I've also given up on fillers, after a long time of using them. I do like felt wads, but the commercial ones are kinda spendy.

When that occurs I trim off enough with a pocket knife so I can rotate the cylinder. And then change the powder charge/filler to make sure it doesn't happen again. It will happen while playing with loads. Corn meal seems a little more compressible than cream of wheat, so that helps, you can...

I agree 4f isn't a danger in modern barrels, just probably not the "best". Didn't mean to start a food fight. Maybe I should say something about WD-40 :).

No. Probably shouldn't use 4f as the propellant charge. 3f is the usual recommendation for under 54 caliber. I find 1.5f Swiss works best for my .45 rifles, but your mileage may and will vary.

I've fired paper cartridges that I loaded 6 years previously in my Sharps...worked like new. So yes, years.

Swiss is great powder...I burn about 10 pounds a year in my unmentionable rifles shooting at steel critters. Burns cleaner than Goex.

Looks like they mounded the fulminate in the center of the cap. Thanks for the pictures. I think that resolves my puzzlement.