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Yup. I always do that. Because when you think you have sanded your stock thoroughly and you think your ready for staining, you'll find a lot of places you have missed. :wink:

Just wondering if one needs to use "clean" steel or iron vs using rusty steel scrap or iron. Also is there a difference using steel vs real cast iron in the mix?

Need help on a traditional method of retaining a ramrod in a 1780 period Lancaster. Most of the time when I build one, the ram rod hole is too tight. So I'm either trying to hog out the hole a bit or sanding down the ram rod or both. Also ram rods are generally not perfectly straight and will in...

Seriously, That's pretty cool.

Wow! That's far out and outta sight... Man! :grin:

Keep an eye on e-bay. Guys are always buying up and parting out CVAs, T/Cs etc. Ya might find one there.

Anyone out there make or have a good idea for a rubber barrel plug for browning and or boiling? I've always used a wooden plug when browning but it always seems to get just a little in the bore creating a rust spot that ends up having to be cleaned out. What do you guys use when boiling a barrel?

:hmm: I was thinking the same thing. If the hole isn't burnt out or some how ruined. Why would one want to remove it. They are supposed to be filed flush. They are installed, cut off and filed flush. Not like a typical screw in. I've never herd of any one wearing one out. Assuming there is...

Thanks all for your input. Does anyone out have an extra they wouldn't mind parting with? If I bend the one I have, (Not a problem) but then it will no long work with the old setup. I'd like to make both work. Anyone have an extra? Please send a PM with the cost.

Thank you, My situation is as you described in your second example.

I changed out a barrel on a T/C Hawken rifle. I used a invest arms breech plug on the new barrel and with a little filing, was able to make it all fit the T/C tang and lock. With the exception that the alignment between the stock hammer and the nipple are off set a bit. Can these hammers be bent...

The first Volume.

The RCA books are pricey but comparable to books of that size. A lot pics in them to study from. Also they are cheaper if you compare them to the cost of what books for college cost. :idunno: Another good book(if you can find it) that covers schools in more depth is "thoughts on the Kentucky...

Well that's a good point. I never thought of it that way. :hmm: I will test them first. (Besides that a good excuse to tell my wife so I can get out to the range :wink: )

Thank you. Yes I do my own engraving. I just use a std. chase hammer and an engraver I made from a worn out chainsaw file. The carvings with a basic set of Pfeil chisels. I get my inspiration from all of you guys here on this site that do such beautiful work on these long rifles. I just copied...

Is the value affected on a rile that is fired or unfired? And,or in other words, do people prefer the rifle tested and sighted in or left unfired when buying a new ML?

Thanks all for the compliments. Just to clarify, This is my first of the two completed for the my winter projects. Not my first ever build. :wink: Here is some close detail pics of the PB and check side carving. It's very hard to get a pic of the BP with all the glare off the brass.

I picked up a couple Jim Chambers Isaac Haines sets for my winter projects and finished the first of the two. This is my so called "test/practice" rifle for the second which has a higher upgrade (better figured)stock. It's a std. JC set with a 38" Rice swamped in .50 cal., Deluxe Siler lock...

This question is primarily directed toward gun builders that build for a living, for hire or those just making an extra buck. How does one determine that value of a ML rifle? Time and material, a set cost just to build one, hourly? Some say if your a nobody, One can't expect top dollar for a...

Lookin good so far :thumbsup: