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I have one for all my flintlocks. They are attached by a leather lace and stay on the rifle all the time. I've been doing black powder since 1975 and have seen several accidents and a lot of fools, all of which would have been well served with a hammer stall.

I am totally lefthanded and shoot lefthanded. I am old enough to have learned to shoot righthanded because LH rifles were almost nonexistant. But just as soon as I saved up enough dollars to buy a LH rifle that's just what I did. I now have 3 LH bolt guns. And I've built my own LH flintlocks. It...

For the straight cuts I clamp a straight edge, against the stock , then using the straight edge as a guide I run a pencil mark down it. Now I can see if it's where I want it to be. If it is I use a parting tool held against the straight edge to make a light cut the length of the straight line...

SMO, My lugs are made of soft steel. My pins are made of drill rod. They are harder, I haven't even had one to bend yet. Before and behind the lug is a long stretch of tough maple which keeps the pin from breaking, though I'm sure eventually the pins will split out the maple. I'm sure drilling...

SMO, The lug was bent up towards the muzzle. I don't believe the slotting caused the lug to crack. One thing I don't understand is why it took nearly 20 years to crack that lug. I don't have any thing to compare them to but you have seen photo's of some of my targets, some of my good ones how do...

SMO....you might be wrong about this. Especially about a free floated barrel. I slot all my rifles in both directions. Never questioned it. Then a couple of years ago I had taken apart my 20 year old Lancaster .54 and happened to notice something strange looking about that first slot. Looking...

FWIW 20 or 30 years ago when I was building my first rifle I called Jim Chambers place of buisness and asked them about the touchhole size. This is what I was told. In the years since it has worked to perfection and I'm very picky about the performance of my lock and rifle. "When you first go...

The hammer stall keeps your frizzen dry and clean, but also works as a sort of safety. It is made of stout leather and if you try to fire your flintlock with it down on the frizzen all you get is a soft "thud" when the flint hits the leather. The flint doesn't penetrate the leather so no sparks...

I use jim Chambers finish on all my new guns, usually about 8 hand rubbed coats. After the last coat has thouroughly dried I use Q tips and split wood shafts with a piece of cloth held in the split. I use the Q tips soaked in finish to seal every crack and hole. Then I use the split shaft, coat...

Try some Jim Chambers original oil finish. It's all I use anymore and I'm pleased with the results.

Have you considered a simple peep sight for the rear? My eyes got to where they couldn't focus on either front or rear, I always saw multiple lines. I made a simple peep sight and that cleared both sights up. It's worth a try.

"And my sympathy."

How so? And what expensive, proper tooling do you speak of? I was going to suggest pulling the breechplug, pouring out the dry (ungreased powder) and driving the ball out the front. I've done it with no harm to my rifle. I don't know if the pederasoli can even be unbreached by the common man...

I have a Rice .40 and a Colerain .54, both shoot very accurately and I would buy either one again. The Rice was clearly better machined and finished while the Colerain took a good bit more time to finish up. The Rice is a nicer barrel and priced so but mine doesn't outshoot the Colerain. I like...

I'm pretty sure Wayne Dunlap doesn't make stocks either. At least he didn't several years ago when I was looking for a LH Isacc Haines in 50 caliber B profile. Wayne is an excellent supplier of premium wood though. And offers a better choice in his kits than most.

Yeah I know, this is an old post. But it is an old post of mine, I am the OP. I ran across this by accident and decided it needed finishing. I put in for a rut hunt with muzzleloaders for years without getting drawn. That's the short answer. The long answer is I was employed by the department of...

Different circumstances sometimes require different solutions. That's a good reason to have backup loads and lubes. I've been hunting with black powder since 1996 and have tested many lubes and combinations. I started out with crisco and it worked great. I used it for years with no problems. I...

I wouldn't use it for hunting. It will dry out and most likely leave a rust ring where the ball was sitting. As for just shooting, I like it a lot. Mr. Flintlocks lube is the same as, or very similar to Original Lehigh Valley. This is/was my favorite lube for casual shooting. But as I discovered...

When I complete a rifle it almost always have either burrs or part of liner intruding into the bore. It's a simple fix to me. I pull the breech plug and using swiss files and/or a dremel tool remove all the portuding liner and burrs until the barrel is smooth. You do it right and there will be...

I bought my first flintlock over 25 years ago, a GPR, and from what I'm reading things sure have changed. At the time I was a fairly capable caplock shooter with some accomplishments at the firing line. So I wasn't anticipating any problems, I was sure wrong about that. The rifle only actually...