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I currently use 4F, but only because I have some. Once it is gone I will use 3F, which is what I use for my main load. At today's prices, I can't see buying a new can of 4F when 3F will work as well.

If I could get my dentist to give me some lead, I would jump on it! BTW, a "rule of thumb" I've always heard (but not proven) for hardness is that you should be able to either scratch the round ball with your thumbnail or for the patch material to mark the ball after loading.

If you can melt it an "normal" temperatures, it should work. Many here have successfully used WWs with a mixed lead alloy. But your ball batches may be inconsistent, depending on the alloy mixtures you used at the time. Assuming the WWs ARE lead based and not steel or zinc, of course Pure...

On a lighter note - these are funny to a chemist !!! :off http://www.lab-initio.com/screen_res/nz015.jpg http://www.lab-initio.com/screen_res/nz063.jpg

:thumbsup: The biochemistry of lead toxicity is well known and not in question. It can and has affected children (adult metabolism can eliminate a certain amount of lead, but a child's metabolism is not developed enough to do so). Lowered intelligence is only one of the major chronic problems...

VERY nice !!! :thumbsup:

Ok ... but what gun would you take with you ???

:hmm: What if someone wants a smoothbore rather than a rifle ???? "Gun" covers both possibilities, IMHO.

A Gillespie style Southern Mountain flintlock, 45 or 50 cal, with curly maple stock and hand forged iron hardware, Siler lock, and a good quality barrel with slow twist for patched round ball. Oh ... and if someone wants to throw in a Shiloh Sharps 1874 Sporter #3, I wouldn't mind !!!

I would think that the casting process heat would have eliminated most all volatile compounds - I vote for a coating. You might try the hot soapy water that George suggests, then rinsing them in acetone. Then put them in a new bag. I would also contact the seller about the problem - they may...

Yeah ... the photos are hidden (buried) in the "Photos" forum area - I got it last Spring, but at less than a year old, it's still "new" to me! http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/294729/ Really enjoying it !!!

I suggest using 3F .... :haha: }:-)

I just cant get into this topic - unless you are capable of shooting competitively at Friendship, I seriously doubt that it is of any use. Definitely not for me, my failing eyesight, and my smoothbore !!! But don't mind me ... carry on !!! :pop:

I last visited the Museum of the Fur Trade about 30 years ago, when I lived in Rapid City, SD. I also visited the Buffalo Bill Museum shortly thereafter. I greatly enjoyed my visit to both museums - both have much to offer the fur trade re-enactor. As does the Quarterly. I strongly recommend...

After a hot water/Murphy's clean and rinse, I use WD40 to help get the water out. BUT I protect with Hoppes or REM gun oil, Barricade, or RIG (if long term).

:thumbsup:

D. Boone did it "back in the day". See Audubon journals for description...

Isopropanol works good ... just be careful and don't get any on your stock! :shocked2: Don't ask how I know .... :redface: (It didn't take off TOO much of the stain. :headslap: ) I now use Rem wax to help protect my stock. :thumbsup: 'Course, spit never hurt anything ... and don't...

Tis the truth !! I be caught up in that spell !!! But lovin it !!!! :grin:

Yeah ... I know the process and biochemistry, but didn't want to get into the black powder making ban area. I think you are right about the male thinking thing.