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Very nicely buck and a great shot!!!! Congratulations!

IMO, your bore looks pretty good. Those shiny marks could just be from the bore scope or cleaning rod contact with the bore…No concern.

I would lean towards a simple C scroll type carving like the carving options for the Woodsrunner offered by Jim Kibler…Check out his samples shown on his web site. They appear to be period correct…1770’s-1780’s. https://kiblerslongrifles.com/products/woodsrunner-rifle-kit-pre-order

Prayers and a speedy recovery for Dave!

I can understand your viewpoint. There has been much controversy about using peroxide to clean ML’s for many years. I have barrels routinely cleaned with MAP for more then 20 years that display zero corrosion when examined with a bore scope and appear “as new”. Several of my shooting buddies...

For my Kibler as well as all my pinned barrel flintlocks for the last few decades I use MAP. Cleaning is fast and thorough with no mess or negative effects. I keep a pint of MAP( Murphy’s Oil Soap 4oz, Peroxide(3%) 6oz, and Alcholhol(70-90%),6oz….In a dark bottle. Plug the flash...

My favorite rifle is the J Dickert early Lancaster. Builder: Marvin Kemper

My best accuracy/precision has been achieved by using seating with a consistent pressure applied to the PLRB. It is also,IMO, a faster and more practical way to load when hunting in the field.

I have found that an effective way to remove the most stubborn patched LRB is to first squirt a liberal amount of Ballistol down the bore and let it soak for a few minutes before using the ball remover…

I’m usually in 10-15 range depending on humidity. I could stretch it further but a stuck ball defeats the purpose…..

As it comes from Kibler the barrel has machine marks that require filing of the flats to eliminate them. Same with the lock. After smoothing with a file I applied a solution that created a light grey appearance. Now, a few years later, the barrel has the appearance of aged, unfinished steel...

If it’s anything like mine it will be well worth the wait! Mine is a 50 cal, Iron furniture, maple stock. Very accurate!

My approach using Permalyn Sealer is quite similar to what you are doing. Wipe it on, let it sit a while, then, buff it out. Once you are happy with the thickness, luster, and grain fill, just allow it to fully dry. You will have a fully sealed finish that will shed water and be quite...

I picked up a 40 cal about 25 years ago, primarily because of its reputation for inexpensive target practice. While this turned out to be the case, I found that it well suited my late season squirrel hunting where I also have the opportunity hunt coyotes, same time, same place. Using a 40gr...

Never tried with my percussion rifles but got to three aimed shots in a minute with my flintlock. In my hunting garb, powder horn(and pouch) on my right, loading block with patched/greased balls and starter on my upper left chest. Prime 3F from my powder horn. Lots of practice, and dealing...

I measured the trigger on my Kibler Colonial. It measures in at a crisp 2.5#-2.8# on my Lyman gauge.

I gut my own deer immediately after shooting it. On occasion I will quarter it, and debone the meat myself.

45 years.

I was at a driven shoot where they were some shooters were stickers 🙄 about my flintlock being charged with powder and ball. They were quite happy with my using the same method with my flintlock that I use when hunting with an unprimed, but loaded flintlock. I use a rear, wing feather from a...

Perhaps the Kibler Colonial could serve as a good platform. It has many of pre-Revolutionary War attributes.