Cleaning Kibler Woodsrunner?

[CatchingChrome]

So I just purchased a prestine kibler woodsrunner, almost too pretty to shoot. wanted to know what's everyone's approach to cleaning woods runner. the barrel is pinned in and I assume I'd have to remove the barrel etc. I've cleaned many other BP rifles...

 

[okawbow]

I remove the lock, push a tooth pick tightly into the vent, and fill the barrel with room temperature water. Let set for a while and dump out. Swab with a couple patches and repeat. Swab again and then swab with a couple alcohol patches. One or two more with WD-40 and one with Rig.

 

[wiscoaster]

You don't need to remove the barrel to clean the rifle, just the lock. Instructions in post above. Except I use Ballistol instead of WD-40. If you happen to get some water in the barrel channel, blow it out with compressed air.

However, maybe you might want to occasionally, say once a year or so, to remove the barrel to clean and oil the underside, to continue protecting it from corrosion.

 

[BJHabermehl]

So I just purchased a prestine kibler woodsrunner, almost too pretty to shoot. wanted to know what's everyone's approach to cleaning woods runner. the barrel is pinned in and I assume I'd have to remove the barrel etc. I've cleaned many other BP rifles...

Since I normally use Simple Green detergent for patch lube. Then it’s a no brainer to use it to clean the bore also. Push a toothpick into the touch hole, and pour some tepid water into the bore, slosh back and forth. Then dump it out. Remove tooth pic, then dry patch the bore till clean and dry. Wet patch with detergent and Repeat if necessary. Oil the bore with your preferred product. This methodology works with most greasy or oil based lubes too. BJH

 

[FlinterNick]

So I just purchased a prestine kibler woodsrunner, almost too pretty to shoot. wanted to know what's everyone's approach to cleaning woods runner. the barrel is pinned in and I assume I'd have to remove the barrel etc. I've cleaned many other BP rifles...

There are a few approaches to cleaning these.

Some people remove the barrel and some do not, I’m one of those who do. I just find it much easier to remove the barrel and clean it. The downside to removing the barrel is that the under lugs can wear out and the pins can loosen,

In the general sense though the barrel does not need to be removed when cleaning, just take the lock off and clean out the bore with soapy water or one of the shelved products such as gun scrubber.

Once the patches are free of fouling, i drop in some barricade and let it dry overnight, i run another patch down in the morning to check the patch, once its clear i grease up the bore.

 

[French Colonial]

If you do remove the barrel to clean it............

Put some wood sealer in the barrel channel, put some RIG or other rust inhibitor on the underside of the barrel, make sure the barrel pin holes are slotted just a bit (to account for wood swelling and shrinking due to humidity etc. and the barrel heating and cooling).

Never remove the barrel again...............Just saying.

 

[Art Caputo]

For my Kibler as well as all my pinned barrel flintlocks for the last few decades I use MAP. Cleaning is fast and thorough with no mess or negative effects. I keep a pint of MAP( Murphy’s Oil Soap 4oz, Peroxide(3%) 6oz, and Alcholhol(70-90%),6oz….In a dark bottle. Plug the flash hole(toothpick), pour a few ounces down the barrel, cover bore with thumb, inverting the rifle a couple of times, let it sit 5 minutes, pour out, wipe dry, final flush with an ounce or two of alcohol, wipe dry, run a patch of WD 40 or Ballistol down the bore, Wipe down the lock/barrel with any black powder solvent, lube surfaces, done.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Peroxide is corrosive, no place for it in a barrel. Just my opinion.

 

[akroguy]

I just accentuate what is done for between shot strings swabbing at the range: wet patches (room temp water and dish soap), wipe until clean, dry patch, then oiled patch. Clean lock surface with toothbrush, dry, oil, done. Pinned barrel not coming off.