Search results

Don't worry about compressing the spring; it's pretty weak and will just flex out of the way. It's only purpose is to keep the wedge from falling out when the gun is disassembled. Just use a piece of hardwood, plastic, or brass and give the wedge a good whack. Some are very tight from the...

You are correct. All my Ubertis are #12-28 (.216" diameter) thread, while the Piettas are 6mm-.75 thread.

Very true!

That can actually be done a bit easier in a lathe using an arbor through the barrel. That way you know the "lug area" is perpendicular to the bore axis.

Oh I'm not talking about CNC machinists, but any modern machinist. The 19th century ways aren't too bad on a lathe, one can do good work with spring calipers and a scale/rule, but on a mill it kinda stinks. Maintaining your X/Y positions with only graduated dials and scales can be a headache.

I suspect they'd be very annoyed at not having DROs anymore though. And no indicators until the late 1880's. 😁

I used a product similar to that Liquid Silver on a couple of mine (Nushine brand, I think). Because it's a chemical reaction instead of electroplating, the silver layer is extremely thin and wears off pretty quickly. Looks good, though.

I agree. It's a fantastic product, but it doesn't handle compression or impacts well. By the way, you need to up your prices. The guy down the street charges 2 full cents for his advice! 😁

I like Lixie's dead-blow hammers with the "medium/green" head

Appears to be? Did you actually measure it? I'd be absolutely shocked to find a Uberti only .002" short because all of mine were .070" to .090" short.

Well you know if the Brits would've just stayed in the EU they might not have had that problem. Please, don't steal the article writer's jokes 😁

The reddish (or pinkish) color is because brass is composed mostly of copper and zinc, and acids tend to eat away at the zinc first, leaving a mostly copper layer on the surface. I believe this is called "dezincification". As you found, polishing removes that copper-only layer and exposes the...

They offer both brands about equally, plus Pedersoli & Chiappa. Depending on the specific model, they usually have a drop-down selection on the left side of the page to select the manufacturer.

Welcome @BPNOOB! I like your Aces High Eddie avatar :thumb: I know you're looking for Rem #10 caps, but these might be your only option besides making your own: https://www.powdervalley.com/product/rws-1075-plus-percussion-caps/ https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/88987

Powder Valley still has RWS 1075s in stock: https://www.powdervalley.com/product/rws-1075-plus-percussion-caps/

I must be a weirdo. I find building is almost more fun than actually shooting.

15 grains. It's been a while, but I think 18 grains will fit with round ball. Someone here will know for sure. My 1862 likes .380" balls; .375" balls go in too easy.

Very nice! I was just thinking I should do this to my 1849 because the faux case hardening is sub-par.

What am I, chopped liver? 🤣

There have been lots of threads on it: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/short-arbor.153251/ https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/uberti-1860-short-arbor-fix.173899/ https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/trying-to-understand-this-“short-arbor”-on-uberti-revolvers.126633/ The...