1851 Navy, Brass Frame

[jddurst]

Hi all, like Brady, I've also acquired a Piettia/Colt '51 Navy, .44 cal. Mine, however, has a brass frame. The price was so low I couldn't resist. It is also my first BP gun, and I'm excited about taking her out on the range.

OK, I hear you say, "The brass frame was only made in the South because they were conserving steel, besides the 1851 was .36 cal and the .44 will stress that brass frame out in no time."

I know, I know, but it was so cheap! and I want to make it go bang...

My questions are along the lines of:

"How many .454 round (swaged) balls can I send down that barrel before the cylinder pin starts to wobble?"

"Should I be limiting the size of the load, to say 24 grains, for example?

If there are any re-enactors out there, would I be able to use this as a 'paper lady' weapon if she is no longer safe to throw lead? (Or would I look silly as a Union re-enactor with anything other than a .36 steel frame?)

I look forward to hearing your thoughts on the matter.

 

[pargent]

Stick to 20grn targetloads and it will out last you :thumbsup:

 

[Don]

Stick to round ball and don't load more than 25 grains of pyrodex or real black and you'll be fine for quite awhile. Load the cylinder off the gun and avoid using 777 and you'll extend the life of the revolver.

Don

 

[jddurst]

Thanks Don, I was thinking I didn't need a .44 loader, if I am probably only going to a .36 next, but I was eyeing the Colt Armies last night...

BTW, anybody have an opinion on Uberti vs. Pietta?

 

[Shoeless]

Stay away from 777 with a brass frame,keep loads @ 25 grs and it should last reasonably well. If you were a Union soldier you would be more than likely carrying an 1860 Army in 44 cal. 36 was the Naval caliber and were prefered by the South.....

 

[Poor Private]

Nothing so-ever is wrong with trip 7. I have been using it for years. You just have to remember that you need to reduce your load by 10%. Those that say stay away from it have no facts to back em up.

 

[pargent]

FYI you dont have to pull the gun apart to load it :shake:

 

[Don]

No you don't HAVE to pull it apart but doing so does lessen some of the stress on the cylinder pin. 777 can be used but I avoid it because I don't want to reduce my loads any further than I already do. I'd probably load about 20 grains of 777 in my 44 brassers. I've also herd its more corrosive to brass than other powders.

Don

 

[cynthialee]

I have that exact same pistol. Love it. Nice shiney brass and a big bullet. :grin:

Just follow the advice given by the posters above me. No need for heavy loads.

Likely you will have to fidget with it, fight with it and fuss with it before you figure out the individual quirks of your pistol. When I first got mine the only thing I liked about it was the look and feel. It was picky about how I loaded it, handled and which caps it liked. Now I got all that figured out and it is my favorite pistol I have ever owned.

 

[bobthemotorcycle]

Lots of people have one of these. My son got me one from Cabelas this Christmas for like $179. Its a Pietta. Pietta makes a good pistol.

The manual will tell you the max load. You are not going to wear it out in this decade if you listen to the manual.

.44 is not history correct but it is something to shoot. I like the barrel of the 1851 and I like .44 so its a good match.

Good luck on your next pistol. Cabelas has a bargan room. Right now they have a steel frame 1860 Army at my local store for $215 which is about a $45 discount. They always have a black powder revolver in their bargan room.

 

[Eljay]

I think if your timing is right Cabelas will practically pay you to take one of those. They're definitely enablers.

 

[George T.]

If you think that loading will strain the revolvers frame you can do as I do. I did not but a special black powder revolver loade but use a small arbor press that I used in bench rest. My revolvers have steel frames so I do not always use it. However when I tried 457 balls I used it 100 %. This press loads the balls flush with the face of the cylinder and when installed in the revolver you can seat the ball on the powder with little effort! Geo. T.

 

[aeatwood]

2F Goex is your friend. 1/4 - 1/3 less pressure than same load of 3F. 20-25 gr, and however many lubed wads you need to get the ball to seat at the front of the chamber.

 

[jddurst]

Thanks guys, I know this topic has been hashed and re-hashed on this forum, but I appreciate your responses.

I've ordered a loader from Cabella's (on sale) and my next challenge is to find the magic powder/filler/ball formula to roll into paper cartridges. Thanks again for your helpful input.

 

[Dickydalton]

If you get the same one I did from Cabelas send it back and get the one Powder Inc./black Dawg sells. I was too lazy to send the Cabelas one back but it sure is junk!
I bent the Powder Inc. one trying to over-compress a load (my fault big time) and they sent me a new part free. Great people.

 

[saber24]

I have a number of C&B pistols and have used them in a number of CAS matches. Last year I picked up a 5-1/2" verson as I had a $20 gift card and they went on sale for $129.

After shooting it along side my 1851 and 1860, I got to say this gun should be outlawed! It's way to fun! The shorter barrel just makes for a bigger BOOM and more flame. And the 1851 grips seem more comfotable then the larger 1860 style.

That is something to note, BTW, The 1860 Army has larger grips and a diffrent feel then the 1851 Navy. Just like shoes: try before you buy and see what fits you.

Also, I found, while shooting matches, the guns got Hotter shooting 2F then 3F.

Bruce

 

[jddurst]

Well, we went out to the range yesterday... In the San Francisco Bay Area there is one range that has a black powder Sunday once a month. The weather was great and my buddy and I enjoyed a pleasant drive along windy hill top roads to get to the Chabot Gun Club.

Once we got settled in to start loading we discovered that the synthetic powder I had was, in fact 777. We reduced the load to around 22 grains, with wads and .454 balls. We also found that the #11 caps were not quite fitting as nice as we desired, so we used #10s.

The gun gave me good grouping at 10 yards (once the smoke cleared enough to see where I had hit the target). The kick was less than I was expecting, but then again, we weren't putting 30 grains in her.

Cleaning the residue off the brass afterwards was a bit of a bear, and now I'm looking into getting my hands on some actual BP.

At the time we were commenting on the fact that for the 5-10 minutes it takes to load the thing, the fun part is over too quickly. To be honest, I thought I'd just go out to the range and fire the pistol a few times to experience the entire process. Historical research, as it were. But I can't keep my mind off ways to smooth out the loading process, spots on the gun that would benefit from pre-lubrication and refining my aiming technique. I think I understand this bug y'all talk about, and I think I might just be infected.

Now I just gotta find that .36 steel frame Navy on sale...

 

[Poor Private]

Yep and there is no known cure, other than poverty. :blah:

 

[spitpatch]

If you are going to be historical I would go with real black powder. 777 to me would be more for inlines. Which I would never own. I have never been to a match where it is allowed.

 

[Carteret Kid]

To appreciate percussion Colts you need to remember the alternative for side arms were single shots or big knives and sabers.
In a world of big knives and big single shots, Sam Colt gave men the power of six in a small package.