We can fix thatI won't be headed to the range with a flintlock soon,
We can fix thatI won't be headed to the range with a flintlock soon,
Mostly a time issue right now.We can fix that
Brokennock is absolutely correct that dry fire is the best practice. Make wooden flint out of a hardwood so that when the gun is dry fired the lock is making all the movement and trigger pull is the same as when firing. What really seemed to improve my ability to hold through is reenacting and firing blank cartridges. There is all the smoke and fire along with a little bit of recoil. There are few flint lock firearms that throw the blast of smoke and fire than 120 grains of Reenactor grade powder at the breech and 6 grains that slow burning powder in the pan. Dry fire practice can be done any where. Once the dry fire procedure is set to muscle memory, a few blank rounds to accustom the shooter to the events that happen during firing can make that steady hold and follow through happen....
As to shooting live fire until the gun doesn't reliably function to try to cure a flinch,,,,,,,,, this is just stupid. Every live fire repetition with flash and flinch reinforces the flinch. Why burn up powder and use up lead when you can get the desired result more reliably with dry fire? Why keep practicing the wring thing? We have a lot of cliche saying in the shooting sports but kne of the better ones from the training world, that I don't think gets used enough, is, "be careful what you practice, you might get good at the wrong thing." To just keep shooting, burning resources, hoping the next time the gun fails that you won't flinch seems a waste of ammo and practice time. Dry fire has been used for quite some time in the modern training world and recently has been seeing a large increase in trainers advocating it and teaching how to do it properly, go with a known beneficial training and practice method.
that will be one of the combinations I'll be trying. Like I've said, I have a lot more experimenting with powder charge, ball or conical to do. I've just started but I'm liking the journey so far.I haven't tried a Traditions rifle, but I did have two 1:48 twist TC .50 cal Hawken rifles; one flint, one percussion. Both shot very well with 60 grains fffG under a .490" roundball and .015" or .017" patch. One plunge of ffffG in the pan.
So, as with most things muzzleloading, personal experimentation is required.
Will be trying that also.
Years ago when I shot my T/C Renegade caplock, it really liked the T/C maxi and hit deer hard; that's why I thought I'd start with these and see if I got the same results. Gonna try them again with a stiffer charge, maybe 80- 85 gr. to help push that big slug.
A bad shot is a bad shot. The bullet won't make up for that.Yup the point of where it needs to be is worth mentioning , also if you screw up that part a conical saves your bacon ! Not to argue but that is fact and with critters that matters , glad your blessed with perfect eyesight and you shoot bullseyes every time but mere mortals screw up and I shoot whatever is legal and the gun likes and it ain't always a round ball aside from that yardage thing that pops up on occasion/Ed
I agree, but I never said I wanted to use a bigger slug to make up for a bad shot.A bad shot is a bad shot. The bullet won't make up for that.
No but weight makes for more penetration thru what ever it hits ! Thats why you see states make min weight specs for RB !!! And not for nothing that RB does not have the same result on a marginal shot ( we all do have one) so no, the conical plows thru stuff further at longer yardage and keeps on keepin on and so do gut piles (not blood trails)No need for that much powder with those heavy bullets. Deer are like shooting through a card board box, they ain't bullet proof. Round balls will do all you need if you do your part of putting them where they need to be.
A bad shot is a bad shot. The bullet won't make up for that.
I left the ramrod out while shooting it, guns forearm wood was resting in the sandbag, not the barrel. I can see if I was resting the rifle on the ramrod/barrel but don't see where it would make a difference resting on the forearm wood.Just from looking at your pictures I noticed your ramrod is out of the gun. Are you sighting it in with it out? Or putting it back in its channel for each shot? I made the mistake and didn’t put the RR back in its channel for each shot one time sighting in. When I took it out to shoot the next time I shot it with the RR in its place and the point of impact was off from what I sighted it in at.
non issue/EdI left the ramrod out while shooting it, guns forearm wood was resting in the sandbag, not the barrel. I can see if I was resting the rifle on the ramrod/barrel but don't see where it would make a difference resting on the forearm wood.
Anyone else have an opinion on this ??
The round ball with a nice wet patch adds so much to the enjoyment of shooting a Flintlock, ditch those big heavy conicals.
Black powder ignites with heat. So the closer you can get to a thermal nuclear explosion in the pan, the faster it'll fire. Been proven time and time again with computerized equipment. Even though it sounds slower to our ear,... extra prime does not make it slower.
Sorry, I got a but busy and couldn't get any new pics of powder in the pan. Here is an old one from a similar topic,Maybe a few of you could post a picture of your pans primed?
Id be curious to see the differences or similarities and im sure it would help the OP, and a few others of us.
I have learned that a flash in the pan and/or a delay in the charge firing is usually caused by overcharging the flash pan. If the priming powder is covering all of part of the flash hole it is like a wick burning down. If people would only use less priming powder it should resolve many of their hang fires.Maybe a few of you could post a picture of your pans primed?
Id be curious to see the differences or similarities and im sure it would help the OP, and a few others of us.
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