2F In A Flintlock Smoothbore

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I have some 2F black powder on order, which is all they had. Can I use 2F as priming powder in an Indian Trade gun? Secondly, can I use pyrodex as charging powder in a flintlock? Thanks
2f can work. Your percentage of misfires may go up depending on your gun.
Before I started making my own bp propellant I experimented quite a lot with what can work in my flintlock. Pyrodex will work down the bore with a good hot priming charge if your gun normally has near instantaneous ignition. You may notice a very slight delay. I've used a mortar and pestal to grind up 2f bp to use as priming powder. Sift or grind to whatever size you like. It works If you have a good flint and Frizzen that sparks hot. Ground pyrodex can be use as prime. There will most likely be a delay, but nothing that can't be adapted to, just hold steady like they had to do when these guns were modern. Making due with what ya got is "traditional" imo. Black powder made two or three hundred years ago was very different than today's "Black powder". Ignition problems were common. The powder had no coating. It was not corned the same. Moisture was a problem.. it worked decent as a prime because the fines were mixed in. Having to hold on target until the smoke clears won't hurt much unless the target shoots back.
 
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If you can lay your hands on some 3F that would be perfect for priming, it’s what I have been doing for years. I used to get 4F in 1/4 Pound Bottles from Dixon’s Muzzleloader shop in Kempton Pa. When I would get around to going there now and again but I have not seen it from them in years.That’s why the 3F comes in to play.
 
Question, any harm or danger of grinding 2f in a non metallic or non sparking pestal and mortar for my priming flask?
I've done that successfully, using a wooden mortar & pestle. I find it hard to control how fine I get it, but the lock doesn't seem to mind.
I've heard/read that grinding can defeat the graphite coating and make your prime more likely to dry moisture but haven't noticed it shooting targets. I wold worry more if I were hunting; leaving the prime in place for a longer time.
 
I have some 2F black powder on order, which is all they had. Can I use 2F as priming powder in an Indian Trade gun? Secondly, can I use pyrodex as charging powder in a flintlock? Thanks
No problem with 2f priming. Potential problem with pyro anywhere near a flinter. I found that pyro didn't work well in my flinter. It requires a pretty hot ignition. Also, being essentially a smokeless powder with slow-burning character, it needs to build pressure exponentially to properly accerate the ball. I don't think that a flinter can provide that initial pressure. I stand to be corrected on this, but that is my belief. Black powder geuns should shoot black powder.
 
No problem with 2f priming. Potential problem with pyro anywhere near a flinter. I found that pyro didn't work well in my flinter. It requires a pretty hot ignition. Also, being essentially a smokeless powder with slow-burning character, it needs to build pressure exponentially to properly accerate the ball. I don't think that a flinter can provide that initial pressure. I stand to be corrected on this, but that is my belief. Black powder geuns should shoot black powder.
Yeah; real flinters use real black powder...
 
I have some 2F black powder on order, which is all they had. Can I use 2F as priming powder in an Indian Trade gun? Secondly, can I use pyrodex as charging powder in a flintlock? Thanks
Yes 2fg black powder can be used as the pan/priming powder. Be prepared for slow to no ignition if only Pyrodex is used as the main charge. A 5 to 10 grain precharge of real black powder is required for almost acceptable ignition of a main charge of Pyrodex. Reduce the Pyrodex charge by the amount of black powder precharge.
 
I have some 2F black powder on order, which is all they had. Can I use 2F as priming powder in an Indian Trade gun? Secondly, can I use pyrodex as charging powder in a flintlock? Thanks
Stick with BlackPowder in Flintlocks and you will be very happy with your experiences and accumulated memories.

Start throwing the replacement powders in the mix, and it will bring only sorrow and woe.
 
Since folks seem to be having a problem sourcing real black....

Travelers Antiques and Trading in Texas phone number 1(806)-470-4130 has plenty of Schuetzen ffg, fffg, and ffffg powder. Both in bulk packaged as Travelers Powder and as factory Schuetzen packaged powder. Call them. They are reasonable with hazmat fees. Quit the substitute nonsense.
 
I use 2F and 3F to prime on all my flinters. The delay is negligible, so go ahead and use that 2F as priming powder!
 
One horn - 2f. The exception is the .32 cal. which is 3f if available. If not, that gets 2f also.
Is it always the fastest ignition?.....nope
Is it always the most accurate?....nope
Do I shoot competition?......nope
Does it always go boom?......yup
Does it kill critters?.....yup
Does it keep my pouch load out simple and uncluttered?......yup
Me and my pouch......simple!
 
One horn - 2f. The exception is the .32 cal. which is 3f if available. If not, that gets 2f also.
Is it always the fastest ignition?.....nope
Is it always the most accurate?....nope
Do I shoot competition?......nope
Does it always go boom?......yup
Does it kill critters?.....yup
Does it keep my pouch load out simple and uncluttered?......yup
Me and my pouch......simple!
Lost me on “Accuracy”
 
Rock Home. There is someone on the forum who reported their best accuracy load in a .50 ended up being 3f. I have a couple of fast twist .50s (1:32 & 1:38) that do better with 3f than 2f when shooting long heavy bullets. I always figured it was the increase in RPMs plus better obturation because of the faster pressure spike, but that's just a theory. With patched roundballs it doesn't seem to matter much at all.
 
Rock Home. There is someone on the forum who reported their best accuracy load in a .50 ended up being 3f. I have a couple of fast twist .50s (1:32 & 1:38) that do better with 3f than 2f when shooting long heavy bullets. I always figured it was the increase in RPMs plus better obturation because of the faster pressure spike, but that's just a theory. With patched roundballs it doesn't seem to matter much at all.
I‘m not surprised…
 
2f as prime may or may not work depending on how strong the sparks are in your pan. Remember national park rules clearly state nothing finer than 2f. So everyone firing at an event or battle under their rules "should" be using 2f. Pyrodex down the barrel as a propellant will need to be wadded which is not allowed per park rules.

As for just shooting, grind the powder for your prime and wad/load and you will be fine. A little divot in your stock and ball make a perfect mortar and pestal for grinding priming powder. Or you can fill it with lube.
 
2f as prime may or may not work depending on how strong the sparks are in your pan. Remember national park rules clearly state nothing finer than 2f. So everyone firing at an event or battle under their rules "should" be using 2f. Pyrodex down the barrel as a propellant will need to be wadded which is not allowed per park rules.

As for just shooting, grind the powder for your prime and wad/load and you will be fine. A little divot in your stock and ball make a perfect mortar and pestal for grinding priming powder. Or you can fill it with lube.
All of the ideas are why the Scottish group I belong to stopped doing events in national parks. As crazy as those rules are you ought to hear the cannon rules.
 
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