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2F or not 2F, that is the question

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Claywms

32 Cal.
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Hi folks. Can some of you explain why you choose either 2f or 3f powder? Are there advantages to either one? I'm going to be working up a load for a Cabelas Hawken .54 cal (29" bbl)shooting round balls. Would you start with 2F or 3F? Thanks!
 
Boy did you open a can of worms!

I recommend trying both. Your rifle may like one better than the other.

Better take cover, the opinions are about to start flying!

:haha:

HD
 
There is no right or wrong choice, either one will work, but one will most likely work better (ie. more accurate) than the other. It's just a matter of experimenting with different loads of both granulations. Heck, while you're at it might as well try some Fg as well!
 
2f no question and for the following reasons

Of course others will have other opinions.

2f powder will burn slower putting less stress on you patch and bullets and lubes. and you

For me at least what this means is that I can use a full power load of 120 grains of 2f powder in a PRB or 425 grain Maxi ball and I never resort to the use of a wad or additional patching between powder and bullet to protect to protect the bullet base or patch material.

When you use 3f and you start to use a heavy load people often resort to some sort of addition patch or wad or filler or material between the bullet and powder to protect the patch from burning thru or the bullet base from getting blow by gases that can affect accuracy.

Additionally you do not get any increased velocity from 3f powder when using it. It is a generally accepted rule that if you use a powder that is 10 to 15 percent faster than 2f you need to reduce the amount of powder you use as a max load.

In this example if (a max is 120 ) figuring 10 percent
120 grains of 2f = 2000 fps with a 235 gr RB
110 grains of 3f = 2000 fps with a 235 gr RB

Yes you can get 10 percent more shots with 3f but the extra fideling and cost for additional components seems a waste to me.

Added to that since I do not wipe between shots the idea of 3f being a bit cleaner or generating less residue means little since I do not wipe between shots.

With the above load as a example when I shoot a maxi ball with 2f the recoil is substantial but not abbusive. the same shot with 3f is something I tried once and am not going to repeate.

Your Milage may vary
 
I went thru this same issue when I first got my .50
the 2f grouped well but I had to wipe more frequently, tried 3f and found it cleaner burning with more shots before wiping. higher pressure, yes, but not enough to rock the boat. the 2f had a lot less pressure. I mention the .50 merely cause history and the books recommend 2 or 3 in the 50 with 2f the recommened in the .54
alot of folks I shoot with use the 3f in their 54 and also in their pistolas, needing to only carry one powder. If it didnt come out my touch hole, I'd burn 3f in my 62sb.
as has been suggested, try both, find a load combo that groups and go with that!
 
I think you will have to figure it out on your own. Every rifle is different. I went from 2f to 3f and got better groups. If you go with the 3f remember to reduce your volume like has been said. I think no matter what you start with, you will end up trying the other somewhere down the line.
 
C.J. Williams said:
Hi folks. Can some of you explain why you choose either 2f or 3f powder? Are there advantages to either one? I'm going to be working up a load for a Cabelas Hawken .54 cal (29" bbl)shooting round balls. Would you start with 2F or 3F? Thanks!
Goex 3F without question...Goex 3F is what I settled on for my .40/.45/.50/.54/.58/.62 calibers, both patched round ball and shot loads, both caplock and Flintlock, in both standard 1:48" twist 29" barrels, and longer 1:66"/1:70"/1:72" twist barrels, plus 33" smoothbore barrels...Goex 3F is faster, cleaner, and more accurate than Goex 2F in any of my above calibers and TC & GM barrels that I own.

Just back down the 2F load data by 10-15% when substituting 3F to keep pressures in the same ballpark and you'll love it....ie: Instead of 100grns 2F use 85-90grns 3F

:thumbsup:
 
I shoot flinters only and my longest barrel is 31" and some are as short as 21"; all .50 cal.
I have used both Swiss and Goex powders in 3f and 2f. I don't own a chronograph so I can't say I get more velocity with 3f; accuracy is no better or worse with either. I do believe that 3f is a better choice for .50 calibers under 39" in length; a well respected member provided some insight that helped me decide on 3f and for the reasons stated above I have no reason not to follow his advice. He helped me with some other issues and was spot on; can't beat experienced advice.
 
Well, thanks for all the replies! As you can tell I'm pretty new to BP firearms in general and any information helps. I'm sure I will just have to try both and see what shoots best. Any further replies are still welcome...thanks again!
 
A long time ago I settled on 3fg for the .54 and under. My .60 and my 20 gauge smoothie get 2fg, unless it is not available. I don't own a .58, but I think with roundballs I would use 3fg. 3fg in short barrels with roundballs doesn't throw streamers of burning kernals of powder. The .60 is big enough and ball heavy enough that it doesn't throw streamers with 2fg. My elevin gauge pistole wheellock will definately get 3fg.
volatpluvia
 
Yup, like everyone else said, try both and see what happens. I started with 2F in my .50 and was pleased. I tried 3f since that's what I was shooting with my .36 and I wanted to just use one type of powder if possible. My .50 just didn't want to cooperate with the 3F. Go figure.
One isn't "better" than the other. I think it's all about what ends up working best with your rifles/guns.
 
I switched to 3F in my .54 because I only need carry one horn for prime and main charge. I have a little brass tube with a wood plug for priming that I refill from the horn as needed,

Simplified life (and seemed to cause less fouling to boot).
 
Scroll through the threads and you will find much information and many answers. I am new too and I settled on 2F in my 42" barreled .54. I often get two bullets cutting into the outer part of eachother at a full 100 yards off the bench. That load slams deer and exits more often than not for me and does a fine job on the inside with a PRB. I have some 3F and I do not doubt that it will work great but the 2F is already shooting better than many centerfire scoped rifles so I have no complaints with 2F. I do believe in my gun that 4F is faster in the pan than 3F but that is a pretty un-scientific observation.
 
I have come top use 3f up to my .62 with good results,you will need to tinker around with both to find what you like, after doing that try mixing half of each you may like it better than either alone.
 
2F in the longer barreled guns, 3f in the shorter barreled guns as a general rule but as another poster said you may as well give 1F a try as well especially in the larger bores of .62 and up. :wink:
 
My 2 Cabelas Hawkens .54s like 3f if the charge will be under about 60 grains BP w/PRB. They shoot better groups with 2f over 60-65 grains. Again, that is all with PRB.
 
Try each, the gun will tell you which one it prefers. My first .54 "Hawken" likes 85 grains of 2f for round balls, 50 grains of 3f (again for round balls), or 100 grains of 2f for maxi ball loads. My other .54 (a cap lock double rifle .54x.54) likes 90 grains of 3f with maxi balls only. Pick up a pound and go shoot, just listen to what the gun says.

Keith
 
What Ive been told was the smaller the size grain the less you need to acheave the same result than the large grain. But it would make sense to use 3f in shorter barrels and 2f in longer barrels because of the burn rate.
 
On a larger bore I had to switch to 2F. 3F was giving me a crud ring hard as nails. As for accuacy and such, I really didn't notice any difference (Geox and was awhile ago)
 
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