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.32 caliber frustrations with not grouping.

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I agree with this.
I'll even poke the bear a little more . . . I think the least important factor in the load is patch lube. I've tried different patch lubes once I got the powder, ball, and patch thickness set . . and they didn't make much difference in accuracy in my .32, 50, or smoothbore. A lubed patch loads nicer . . and probably impacts fowling, but when I collect shot patches downrange they all look the same. . . I am not saying it doesn't make any difference, I just think it is the least of the factors. . . case in point, a lot of guys talk about their loads and many have the same powder volume, ball, and patch thickness, but far less common is the same lube. . . but I'm very open to hearing people disagree. . . and I say that even as a fan of Dutch Schultz's methods.
My experience is a little different, I typically use the Dutch Schutz method, after numerous trials, settled on 1:8 ballistol and water, shooting consistently under an inch.

Experimented with numerous concentrations of Dawn, olive oil, tallow, etc... even tried several commercial products, and had trouble grouping even 2-3 inches with everything else the same.

The only thing I found that would shoot as well in my guns was the green Teflon coated patch material bought from Mr. Arrowwood, but don't have the ability to make that myself.
 
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I have a .36 that I could never get to group until I changed the lube. After that, it tightened up considerably. Only one that I’ve ever had to do this.
What kind of lube did you go from and to? I am always open to learning and often wrong. Just curious. I have a tin can of a lube I bought from Flintlocks Inc and it is kind of pink. It seems really nice, but I've not used it. I had a .32 Crockett I could not get to shoot well, in spite of its great reputation, and tried all sorts of lubes and other combos. I sold the rifle and built the TVM kit.
 
Pretty sure the OP’s vent is not 1/64”. Never even saw a drill that size, or a normal drill chuck that goes down that small. Most accuracy problems are caused by blown patches. Most blown patches are caused by poor muzzle crowns or rough bores, or too thin/ wrong patch material. I shoot a .30 caliber rifle using a .300 ball and .020” denim patch. I have a good ball starter with a concave short nub. The ball is easily swaged into the bore and goes down easily after starting. The patches could be used again, and that is a key indicator of potential accuracy. The best starting point for small caliber accuracy always seems to be an equal grains of powder as the caliber. Load can then be adjusted up or down until one gets the best grouping.
 
The OP hasn't been back since we questioned the 1/64" touch hole. I searched for the "certified Grade B gage pins" and can't find any.

Thank you for your response.

The touch hole is 1/64” diameter, verified with certified grade ‘B’ gage pins. A .016dia pin will not go and a .015dia pin will go.
 
What kind of lube did you go from and to? I am always open to learning and often wrong. Just curious. I have a tin can of a lube I bought from Flintlocks Inc and it is kind of pink. It seems really nice, but I've not used it. I had a .32 Crockett I could not get to shoot well, in spite of its great reputation, and tried all sorts of lubes and other combos. I sold the rifle and built the TVM kit.p
Tried Hoppe’s 9+, Balistol (various dilutions w/water), zip lube, mink oil, and crisco. Finally tried Bore Butter and saw an immediate improvement in accuracy, but it requires swabbing the bore frequently to avoid any buildup. I don’t like BB but there it is.
 
The OP hasn't been back since we questioned the 1/64" touch hole. I searched for the "certified Grade B gage pins" and can't find any.
Yeah, as a machinist I never heard of them either. We have precision ground hardened tool steel pin sets in .001" increments , no "certified grade" that I know is listed. I have to assume it is not a 1/64" hole and there was some confusion.
 
The OP hasn't been back since we questioned the 1/64" touch hole. I searched for the "certified Grade B gage pins" and can't find any.
as a machinist I never heard of them either. We have precision ground hardened tool steel pin sets in .001" increments , no "certified grade" that I know is listed.
There are classes of gauge pins (ZZ, Z, XX, and X for example) that cover deviations in the manufacturing process for tolerances and geometry. I also am not sure of what the OP is referencing, but there may be something to learn…. never say never.

One would think that if the OP spent two years on a DOE study they would have the diameter of the touch nailed down, though I was surprised they didn’t your the diameter variation as an input in the study.

As far as gauge pin diameters, I have sets that go down to .011” and drills that go down to a little over .013”, so creating and measuring the diameters the OP is using is very much doable, though I don’t believe 1/64” diameter is practical for touch holes, but admit I have never tried that size. In my mind I struggle to go smaller that 5/54” (.078”) based on actual shooting over the years.
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The touch hole is 1/64” diameter, verified with certified grade ‘B’ gage pins. A .016dia pin will not go and a .015dia pin will go.
 
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