.36 cal balls in .375 and .380

[gibby]

Hello all.. I'm just getting started with percussion arms and I have a new Pietta 1851 Navy London that i'm rounding up components for. I have been reading alot about percussion revolvers and their care and feeding and I noted that for the .36 cal, most folks seem to recognize the ball diameter to use as .375. Then today as I was looking for caps, (thats an exercise in futility), I ran across a supplier that offered .375 and .380 balls. Aside from the obvious .005 difference is there a circumstance where the .380 would be recommended over the .375 ?

Can't imagine lead balls wearing out cylinder bores or barrels. I suppose maybe some manufacturers are not holding tolerances, but even that seems a bit of a stretch in this day and age, even on a inexpensive but well known replica manufacturer??? What am I overlooking?

Thx
gibby

 

[64Springer]

Your rammer may have a hard time seating a .380 ball.

A lot of lead to compress.

Go with the .375.

 

[Crow Choker]

Try a box of each .375 and .380's, see what works best. You can still shoot the 2nd place diameter or if you cast melt em down to the 1st place winner diameter. I'm a die-hard fan of 44 caliber cap n ball revolvers, but some 10 years ago I bought a Uberti 1851 36 caliber. Started out using .375's, but read alot of info where shooters had better results with .380's. After I bought a used, but like new older Navy Arms 1861 Navy in 36, I bought a box of .380's. Did alot of shooting with both guns using both diameters. Cleaned barrel and cylinder alot when testing so as not to let residue affect trial. The 380's always seemed to have better accuracy and shaved a nicer ring of lead when seating. Seating was no problem with ramming them into the cylinders with the revolver's rammer. That plus .005" on the .380's while not much seemed to give a plus in accuracy and was of no consequence when seating and gave a better ring of lead. I cast so a Lee double cavity mold was ordered and has been used ever since. All remaining .375's went into the Lyman melt pot. Did some similar testing back in the day with 44's. Back in 1972 when I first got into cap and ball shooting, .451's seemed to be the norm until .454's became popular. Haven't shot a .451 ball for 30 some years.

 

[gibby]

Thanks for the fast replies...Advice duly noted and appreciated.

 

[PastorB]

I like .380's in my .36 Navies, better accuracy and more velocity with same powder charge. You have a Pietta, by in my Uberti Navies, whether the 1851 or 1861, I must use the .380, as the .375 is too small, with no lead shaved off, and movement from recoil. My favorite revolver is a Pietta 1851 Navy, and I prefer the .380 sized ball in it also, although .375 will work. Using pure lead, the effort to seat an oversized ball, within reason, is minimal in my experience.

 

[Pete453]

See Pastor B's post. Spot on, my experience as well.

 

[Bad Karma]

Hello all.. I'm just getting started with percussion arms and I have a new Pietta 1851 Navy London that i'm rounding up components for. I have been reading alot about percussion revolvers and their care and feeding and I noted that for the .36 cal, most folks seem to recognize the ball diameter to use as .375. Then today as I was looking for caps, (thats an exercise in futility), I ran across a supplier that offered .375 and .380 balls. Aside from the obvious .005 difference is there a circumstance where the .380 would be recommended over the .375 ?

Can't imagine lead balls wearing out cylinder bores or barrels. I suppose maybe some manufacturers are not holding tolerances, but even that seems a bit of a stretch in this day and age, even on a inexpensive but well known replica manufacturer??? What am I overlooking?

Thx
gibby

If you’re shootin a Pietta .375” is what you want. For Uberti it’s .380”… the bore sizes are nearly identical but Pietta have undersized chambers.

 

[gibby]

Thanks, BK....I'll measure the chamber diameter. Duh, I should have thought of that, but couldn't see the forest for the trees.

 

[No second place]

In all the .36 revolvers I have owned and tested .380s always have worked as well or better than .375s. Pietta, Uberti and all other makers. Dozens of .36s. I have found no use for .375s anymore. Better consistent accuracy due to not backing out under recoil and a wider band of contact with the lands and grooves. Chronograph results note a bit more and consistent velocity. Even my light match loads of 15 grains Goex 3f in the tighter chambers of my Piettas, .375s sometimes move forward a bit by my dial caliper. Not much but not great for consistent results. If you seat deep in the chambers and are just playing or plinking this difference won't matter I expect. Fine match results requires extra effort. My testing is based on possible match use...

 

[gibby]

I appreciate all the responses.
I'm going to try both but am certainly leaning towards the .380s now. Been searching for .380s but can't seem to find any and in my old age I can't remember where I first saw them offered. Are you guys casting your own?

 

[No second place]

I appreciate all the responses.
I'm going to try both but am certainly leaning towards the .380s now. Been searching for .380s but can't seem to find any and in my old age I can't remember where I first saw them offered. Are you guys casting your own?

Track of the Wolf has
.380 ball but, I prefer my cast RB.I know my RB all come from the same mold, same size and nothing but lead. Yes, many factory made perfect looking ball have hardener tin added. Makes them look better but not shoot as well as pure lead. Also lead loads easier...c

 

[ZUG]

I've had the same experience as the others - .375" in Pietta and .380" in Uberti so I just buy/cast .380".

 

[Bunk]

Your rammer may have a hard time seating a .380 ball.

A lot of lead to compress.

Go with the .375.

Amen Brother.
.A pure lead is what I have been using in both .36 (.375") and .44(.451") for many many. years.
Welcome to the fascinating and frustrating world of C&B
Bunk