36 Cal Questions

[Bill Bryan]

I've got a 36 cal Remington revolver reproduction. I've fired it a few times with 15 grains of black powder with a greased over powder wad and round ball. It's pretty accurate but consistantly shots 6-8 inches high at 25 yards. I need to reduce the powder charge.
I've read about using corn meal or grits to fill the cylinder about the powder charge. The other option would be to seat the ball deeper in the cylinder. Why is the use of filler prefered?
Secondly I've seen others use grease over the bullets after they are seated. I haven't done it. Do you really think it is needed?

 

[cougarmagnum]

Why do you need to reduce charge further? Your load is already light! Up the charge will lower point of impact, it's a matter of recoil timing. The faster bullet exits barrel, the lower impact on target. The slower bullet exists, the farther gun recoils before bullet leaves barrel Just the opposit with rifle, slower bullet impacts lower. If you don't use wads, you must use grease over ball, Two reasons, lubrication, and safegard against chain firing!

 

[cougarmagnum]

Forgot on first post to answer guestion on filler. If you don't use filler on light charges, ball has too far to jump before reaching rifling in barrel, ball will not enter true! Ball must be as close to barrel as possible, otherwise accuracing will suffer!

 

[Rebel]

If you have a tight fitting ball, like you should, you won't get a chainfire from the front of the cylinder. All the grease does is lube the bore. Chainfires happen when caps fall off from nipples and flame gets in from the back.

 

[cougarmagnum]

I agree with your assesment on flame entering nipple, once about 25 years ago, I tried without grease on balls, had a chain fire, sounded like a semi-auto, just been using grease ever since! A tight fitting ball won't allow chainfire, but since my incident, have been a little gun shy, no pun intented!

 

[Rebel]

Well, that is what makes this sport interesting, everyone has there own way of doing things. As long as it isn't dangerous to you or anyone near you, no problem. :thumbsup:

 

[rebel727]

If you have a tight fitting ball, like you should, you won't get a chainfire from the front of the cylinder. All the grease does is lube the bore. Chainfires happen when caps fall off from nipples and flame gets in from the back.

Back when I first starting shooting bp in a revolver I didn't use grease or wads, had many chainfires. When I started using grease they stopped even when using caps that had to be pinched to stay on and they always didn't stay on.

 

[Rebel]

I've been shooting them for over 30 years, with and without grease over the ball and have NEVER had a chainfire. I just don't see how a flame coming out the front of a chamber can make a 180 degree turn and go back into another chamber, past a ball, that you had to shave a ring of lead off of to seat, and then make it to the powder.

 

[Kenneth Hall]

Why do you need to reduce charge further? Your load is already light! Up the charge will lower point of impact...

If fifteen grains is a light charge what would ya'll recommend? I just bought an 1851 Navy manufactured by FIG in 1968 and have rounded up everything except a powder measure that goes as low as fifteen grains. All the measures in my area start at twenty grains. Is that too much powder or do I need to order a smaller-increment measure off the 'Net? I can't wait to shoot it but want a pleasurable experience druther than a disaster... :shocked2:

as ever,
Dr. X

 

[Rebel]

If it is a well made, steel framed revolver, there is no way you can put enough BLACK POWDER in it to do be dangerous. And 20 grs is a good load for a .36 cal.

 

[Boomer]

In my 51 Navy's I shoot 20gr fffg under 10gr corn meal, .375 RB & then I lube with crisco.

This load throw 4" groups to POA at 25yds.

I have only once had a chain fire & that was with a 1860 Army. I did not have the cylinder lubed but I think that was just a coincidence.

I religously use lube, not to prevent a chainfire but to keep the fouling soft so I can shoot all day without having to stop for a cleaning break :redface:

 

[rebel727]

I've been shooting them for over 30 years, with and without grease over the ball and have NEVER had a chainfire. I just don't see how a flame coming out the front of a chamber can make a 180 degree turn and go back into another chamber, past a ball, that you had to shave a ring of lead off of to seat, and then make it to the powder.

Not to be argumentive but it makes as much sense as enough flame coming out the nipple of a fired chamber and entering the nipple of an uncapped one and seting off that chamber. If that's the case then in a chainfire where multiple chambers fire how do you explain chambers firing that still have caps? I suppoes the flame comes out of the nipple and turns and goes under loose fitting caps and then into the chamber. :hmm:

 

[Rebel]

Well, not to be argumentative either, but how do you know there was a cap on the nipple when it went off? And as far as the flame getting in the hole of a nipple without a cap, well, there you have it. A clear hole with no lead ball blocking it. I guess this is one of those instances where we each see things differently and need to agree to disagree. Just so we both no I'm right. :grin:

 

[Kenneth Hall]

If it is a well made, steel framed revolver, there is no way you can put enough BLACK POWDER in it to do be dangerous. And 20 grs is a good load for a .36 cal.

Mine has the brass frame, but has been actually fired very few times, so it is strong and tight. Still OK to use 20 grains of Pyrodex P behind a .375 ball?

as ever,
Dr. X

 

[Rebel]

Even a brass framed one should be ok with only 20 gr of P.

 

[Kenneth Hall]

Even a brass framed one should be ok with only 20 gr of P.

:bow: Tomorrow's the big day then... :thumbsup:

as ever,
Dr. X

 

[Rebel]

Have a blast. :grin:

 

[Nightwind]

Bill, I'm assuming it's a Remington model '58. The wife had the same problem with her 36 cal.I removed the front sight and dove tailed the barrel and installed a taller sight. You could also slop on some JB weld on the front sight and file it down to the proper shape(but taller) and adjust as neccessary. If you have the 7.7 inch barrel, and averaging seven inches high POI, the mathematical formula says you need to raise the front sight approximately 50 thousandths. hopes this helps.

 

[JackAubrey]

I have to toss my hat in w/ Rebel on the chainfire debate.I have an 1851 navy and I load 25 graine 3f Goex, a lubed wonder wad( for lubrication) then the ball.Best regards,J.A.

 

[Smokin6Gun]

Keep in mind the hot pressurized gases, and sparks bouncin off the frame and shield that hit the cylinder chambers/cones on either side of the fired chamber. Not only a cap the falls off but an unseated or loose cap could cattch a spark or that hot gas blowin' out the fried cone.
My two cents... :hmm: