I recently purchased an old CVA what I believe is an 1851 Navy model. Serial#72. Want to know if someone could help me identify what year it is, and the proper load of pyrodex rs to use. I've muzzleloaded for years with a rifle,but new to the cap and ball revolvers.
.36 caliber CVA 1851 Navy?
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Serial#72 seems wrong- maybe call them. On the Pyrodex, normally you would shoot P (pistol) rather than the RS. I think the RS compares with ffg which burns a little slower than fffg. If you have a brass frame I would load a volume equivalent of around 17 grains of rs, then a pre-lubed wad, then the ball. If you don't want to use a wad then the powder, the ball, and cover the end of the chamber with Crisco. Personally I like wads, they move the ball closer to the front of the cylinder which often improves accuracy and they sort of clean out fouling in the barrel from a previous shot, and they are a good seal to ward off a chain firing. The Crisco is messy and some times burns out or melts away before all the chambers are fired.
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A picture would probably tell the story. MD.
Good advice from crockett on the powder and from M.D. regarding posting a picture.
The following link has a chart which will show you the year made:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/236956/
Your revolver was likely made by Armi San Marco. It will probably be marked ' ASM ' on the bottom barrel flat.
The following link has a chart which will show you the year made:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/236956/
Your revolver was likely made by Armi San Marco. It will probably be marked ' ASM ' on the bottom barrel flat.
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I will attempt to post a picture. I have it lying right here next to me, and it is stamped #72 on the brass in front of the trigger. It also says blackpowder only,.36 cal, made in Italy on the bottom flat of the barrel. Thank you so much for your help.
What things do you need to know that would have been in an owner's manual? As far as disassembly- probably plenty just on the net. The only thing on disassembly- you don't want to mar the slots on the screws/bolts so get two screw drivers that are too big and grind them down until they fit the slots in the bolts. Normally there are only two sizes on the bolts. The exact fit keeps the slots in good shape. The fit should be exact both in width and thickness.
The first time you take the gun apart it is a good idea to draw little pictures of how the springs are positioned, etc so you know how to put everything back correctly. After a few times you can do it blind folded.
The first time you take the gun apart it is a good idea to draw little pictures of how the springs are positioned, etc so you know how to put everything back correctly. After a few times you can do it blind folded.
Good idea, Crockett. I've been too cheap to buy specific screwdrivers to fit my screws, but I've got a zillion regular screwdrivers.
I'm gonna go right to my garage and make a pair of " correct"
screwdrivers !
I'm gonna go right to my garage and make a pair of " correct"
screwdrivers !
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I started to use my digital camera to take staged shots in complicated dis and re assemblies. It makes the job much easier and fool proof. Mike D.
I have the manual, and I think I have a pdf for it. The manual I have is CVA's generic "Revolver Manual" and it covers the colt's and the remingtons they sold.
I will dig around and if I can find the PDF version I will send it to you if you want. I will be honest though, there's better places to get information about your Colt than this booklet.
I havent used mine for anything but its load chart in forever, and even that information is here for the getting.
I will dig around and if I can find the PDF version I will send it to you if you want. I will be honest though, there's better places to get information about your Colt than this booklet.
I havent used mine for anything but its load chart in forever, and even that information is here for the getting.
Your #72 is most likely to be an assembly number. That's the last two digits of the complete serial number. The assembly number helps to keep track of parts during fitting and assembly.
I tried Pyrodex P many years ago. There was a noticeable delay in firing. Since then I have always used real black powder. I haven't seen any advantage for using substitute powder over real black powder.
I tried Pyrodex P many years ago. There was a noticeable delay in firing. Since then I have always used real black powder. I haven't seen any advantage for using substitute powder over real black powder.
They have more than one set of numbers on them. I believe if I remember right you will find the serial numbers on the frame if you remove the handles or somewhere else if you take it apart. I have one but a friend of mine has it trying to do some repairs. Don't overload it or you will weaken the brass frame like mine was.
Mr.T: if it is a Colt you should be able to make one screwdriver that fits most of the smaller bolts in the frame and then a larger screwdriver for the ram- that should do it- just two.
In grinding down the screw drivers, they are usually tapered towards the edge but if you can hollow grind or grind such that the front and back are parallel- so much the better. Get both the thickness and width to match the slot- completely filling in the slot. If the screw driver slips out of the slot you could scratch the gun so emery paper and polish the surface of the screwdriver. You want the edges pretty square and then just polish them enough so they won't scratch, you don't have to excessively round off the edges- just break the sharpness.
The mechanics of the parts on a percussion Colt are nearly identical to a Peacemaker so any book that deals with a Peacemaker can pretty much apply to the percussion guns.
I really like the Colts, you can completely strip them and remove the barrel and clean from the breech end.
In grinding down the screw drivers, they are usually tapered towards the edge but if you can hollow grind or grind such that the front and back are parallel- so much the better. Get both the thickness and width to match the slot- completely filling in the slot. If the screw driver slips out of the slot you could scratch the gun so emery paper and polish the surface of the screwdriver. You want the edges pretty square and then just polish them enough so they won't scratch, you don't have to excessively round off the edges- just break the sharpness.
The mechanics of the parts on a percussion Colt are nearly identical to a Peacemaker so any book that deals with a Peacemaker can pretty much apply to the percussion guns.
I really like the Colts, you can completely strip them and remove the barrel and clean from the breech end.
"Couldn't find the PDF", ~Snip~ Belay that!!! I just located the PDF file. [strike]Send me a private with an e-mail to send it and I will happily share.[/strike] Sent it to the e-mail on the forum record.
You should know its a generic manual for all CVA revolvers, including the Remington.
You should know its a generic manual for all CVA revolvers, including the Remington.
On the right side of the frame are there some Roman Numerals or a square with some letters inside?
As for screws, if you're serious about protecting them, get the Grace Colt Peacemaker screwdriver set. They are the proper hollow ground drivers that won't bugger up the screws. This set will work on most Italian Colt and Remington reproductions that I've had so far and of course the real ones.
As for screws, if you're serious about protecting them, get the Grace Colt Peacemaker screwdriver set. They are the proper hollow ground drivers that won't bugger up the screws. This set will work on most Italian Colt and Remington reproductions that I've had so far and of course the real ones.
