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4f priming powder...

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Dear Brokennock,

Why does my opinion on the subject even matter to you? Enough to start an argument over? Am I priming your rifle? Are you priming mine? Do I provide your priming powder? Do you provide mine?

You've expended a lot of angst over something that has exactly zero bearing on either one of us.

Now you seem to be a cranky old soul who's desperate to be right about something, or anything really, or, you just need to piss off because me stating my opinion wasn't talking to you.

Have a nice evening.......
Because the way you state something as being fact,,, and may or may not be, will be taken as fact by someone who doesn't know any better.
This is how all the b.s. old wives tales, myths, legends, and fallacies that plague the black powder/muzzleloading community keep getting perpetuated.

Your the one who got your panties in a wad when asked to prove something you stated as fact.
Maybe it is. If so, I'd love to see the proof so that we can all benefit from it. Just because someone wants to see proof of something doesn't mean they are saying that the something is wrong.
 
Because the way you state something as being fact,,, and may or may not be, will be taken as fact by someone who doesn't know any better.
This is how all the b.s. old wives tales, myths, legends, and fallacies that plague the black powder/muzzleloading community keep getting perpetuated.

Your the one who got your panties in a wad when asked to prove something you stated as fact.
Maybe it is. If so, I'd love to see the proof so that we can all benefit from it. Just because someone wants to see proof of something doesn't mean they are saying that the something is wrong.

That's a lot of words just to say you're a grouchy prick.

Now, prove you're not.......
 
I use 3F in the bore and pan in my Pedersoli 1763 Charleville. The pan doesnt burn as fast as 4F but it's fast enough for me. I haven't used 2F in the bore yet but for now I'm sticking with 3F because I like my results. This is 50 yards off hand
 

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That's a lot of words just to say you're a grouchy prick.

Now, prove you're not.......
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Name calling?! Name calling? Really?
That's the best you've got?

You asked why I care. I answered.

to say you're a grouchy prick.
Maybe you should look in the mirror.

And,
3qzg9h.jpg


If your fragile ego can't handle being questioned, maybe internet forums aren't for you? Maybe there is a "safe space," forum somewhere.

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
 
That's exactly what I was talking about mate! Just be extra careful of static electricity,sparks and far.
There is quite a lot of misinformation with respect to static electricity setting off black powder. A number of experiments have been conducted to test that theory. Here in the Forum, we have links to some of these experiments. Yes, that thread was posted back in 2008, but the findings are still valid.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/static-electricity-and-black-powder.35130/
The sparks we see coming off the steel (frizzen) of our flint locks are burning shards of steel and not electrical in nature.

The static sparks we see coming off our fingers as we walk across the carpet and touch a doorknob are static electricity, but there is no heat in those sparks to set off the grains of black powder.

In instances where a spark has set off various powders in a grain mill or black powder production facility have come from steel striking something hard and the spark is the burning steel spark with enough heat to ignite the flammable dust in the air. For that kind of dust to ignite, the particles have to be so small that they float in the air. That's why gas vapors explode in our car engines, flour mills explode, or black powder mills explode. The flammable materials are so small that those sparks with not enough heat to ignite a grain of flammable material have just enough real heat to them are enough to ignite the floating dust in the air.

Now when using a mortar and pestle to reduce black powder grain sizes down to a 4f grain size, do be aware of the sparks and use non-sparking materials. Shaking a can of black powder in a plastic container will not generate a static electricity spark that can set off the powder. The plastic in a black powder container has been treated to carry off the built-up charge before a spark can form
 
This static nonsense is a good example of what I was talking about above regarding b.s. myths and old wives tales being passed along through generation after generation of muzzleloaders because no one questions or asks for proof. When one does question the perpetuators of muzzleloading myth, they get all upset and defensive.
 
Blah, blah, blah blah blah, blah, blah, blah.........bah, bah, bah, bah. Snivel, snivel, bah, blah, blah.

What we are not seeing is you adding anything of value to this discussion. Maybe you could try doing that, or is your blithering blather all you got?
 
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There is quite a lot of misinformation with respect to static electricity setting off black powder. A number of experiments have been conducted to test that theory. Here in the Forum, we have links to some of these experiments. Yes, that thread was posted back in 2008, but the findings are still valid.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/static-electricity-and-black-powder.35130/
The sparks we see coming off the steel (frizzen) of our flint locks are burning shards of steel and not electrical in nature.

The static sparks we see coming off our fingers as we walk across the carpet and touch a doorknob are static electricity, but there is no heat in those sparks to set off the grains of black powder.

In instances where a spark has set off various powders in a grain mill or black powder production facility have come from steel striking something hard and the spark is the burning steel spark with enough heat to ignite the flammable dust in the air. For that kind of dust to ignite, the particles have to be so small that they float in the air. That's why gas vapors explode in our car engines, flour mills explode, or black powder mills explode. The flammable materials are so small that those sparks with not enough heat to ignite a grain of flammable material have just enough real heat to them are enough to ignite the floating dust in the air.

Now when using a mortar and pestle to reduce black powder grain sizes down to a 4f grain size, do be aware of the sparks and use non-sparking materials. Shaking a can of black powder in a plastic container will not generate a static electricity spark that can set off the powder. The plastic in a black powder container has been treated to carry off the built-up charge before a spark can form
flour mills have been known to explode,
 
Repeating what others have said

I have primed with 2F and I see no difference in speed of ignition versus 4F, I use 4F because it flows through different priming horns and flasks easier than courser powders. If something goes wrong it is also a little easier to get 4F through a 1/16" vent hole than larger powders.

I usually stick the priming horn/flask in a pocket if at a match and priming at the line.

I also agree with Brokennock, that opinions should be labeled as such, there are too many "facts" on forums that are just not so.
 
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