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50 cal loads?

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k.jacobfrost

40 Cal.
Joined
May 23, 2006
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I'm wanting to work up loads for my 50 cal rifle for both target shooting and hunting. Do any of you have some advice on what load to start with and how to fine tune it to get the most effective loads?

I plan on shooting a .495 rb with .010 patch using 3f Goex.

Thanks,
Frost
 
Well a good place to start would be about 50grains. Work your way up in 5 grain increments until you are satisfied. What kind of rifle are you shooting?
 
Well i found that with a 50cal green mountain barrel i needed a 490 soft lead ball, .15 patch corn meal to protect the patch then the powder 80 in my case.
I went thru lots of trouble to get to this cos the patch kept getting blown and the gasses would cut the ball then the ball flew wild. If you have problems with accuracy just try reducing the load (just for testing) down to say 40grns if the accuracy improoves (mine went from 6inch at 30yrds down to a large half inch hole) then your patch could be getting blown (even if its not obvious) the corn meal/flour whatever really helped with accuracy. If you dont come right with it get on here again and talk to us/me someone.
Regards
Dobson :hatsoff:
 
Good advice so far. I have found that a felt wad over the powder helped me out a lot with my Deerstalker.
 
Don't know what rifle you're using but in TC .50cal standard and round ball barrels I've settled on:

TARGETS
50grns Goex 3F
.015" cotton or .018" pillow ticking
Hornady .490s

DEER HUNTING
90grns Goex 3F
Oxyoke prelubed wonderwad
.018" prelubed pillow ticking
Hornady .490s

Always had better accuracy with thicker patches and like the fact that thicker patches hold more lube
 
Frost: Whne you next write for this kind of advice, it would help us if we know what make and model of rifle you have,( or its its a custom build), Is it a Percussion Action, or Flintlock Action, ( I am assuming its a percussion because you posted this in the Percussion Rifle Section, but some folks don't know one from the other), The caliber stated in thousandths of an inch( measure the bore--land to land-- diameter, and then the groove diameter, particularly if this is NOT a commercially made rifle) and the Rate of Twist of the rifling. The Barrel length also helps us recommend specific loading data.


Not knowing any of those things for sure, I have to recommend you follow Roundball's advice on the loads. He has been shooting his T/C rifles for years, shoots every week, and knows what works. In my own .50, I use similar loads, although my powder charge is different because I am shooting a flintlock, and using FFg powder instead of FFFg powder.

At very short yardage( out to 25 yards), you can work up an accurate load between 25 and 30 grains of powder. Its subsonic, doesn't kick, but puts nice holes in paper just the same. And, its accurate enough for shooting squirrels. "Quiet" can often get you permission to hunt on land when "loud " won't. Squirrel hunting with a large caliber rifle is great training and warm up for hunting deer later each Fall. Save the 80 grain charges for shooting out at 100 yards, and for yout deer hunting. All of us who have hunted deer with the .50 have found the powder and PRB combination to be deadly on deer out to 100 yds, and a bit further, if we do our part.
 
Thanks for the advice so far. I didn't include what kind of rifle it is just cause a)It was about 1am when I posted it and b)It's a custom build and I have no idea on how to identify the style of rifle. But here is a link to a short discussion on the rifle a while back. Link
It's got a green river barrel on it, has 7 lands and grooves, from land to groove it measures .515, groove to groove is .525 and land to land is .480 (or at least I think it is, caliper was giving me trouble). I'm not sure what the rot is. And yes it is a caplock, I don't know if it matters but I am using no. 11 cci caps on it as well.

Frost
 
Frost said:
It's got a green river barrel on it, has 7 lands and grooves, from land to groove it measures .515, groove to groove is .525 and land to land is .480 (or at least I think it is, caliper was giving me trouble).

Yes, measuring bore diameter in a 5- or 7-groove barrel can be a challenge. If your other two measurements are reasonably good, though, the grooves should be ~.010" deep, so your bore should be more like ~.505".

Joel
 
If the cost of powder and the fact you can easily get it isn't a problem I would target shoot with the same round I hunt with. By that I mean full power loads what ever your rifle dials in at.

Roundball's load of 90g with .490 Hornaday balls and pillow ticking is what seems to shoot true in all of my "48" twist rifles flint or percussion.

I bump the powder up a bit with light ballets and lower it a bit with conicals.

I would guess anywhere between 80g to 110g you will find the best hunting load for any .50cal but I weight over 230 and recoil does not bug me that much.

Good luck
 
Hello from Germany!

I use a .50 Traditions Deerhunter capgun. My targetload is 60 grs WANO PP, .490 RB, 0,20mm lubed patch. Brings at 50 m 5 shot groups of about 2''.

My hunting load is 75 grs WANO PP, the rest equal to target load.

Hope this will help.

Regards

Kirrmeister
 
Okay! With the 34 inch barrel, your maximum powder charge will be 76.77 grains of Black Powder. Reduce that by 10 % and you are at approx. 70 grains, for an accurate powder charge for that gun, and hunting load. Target load will be about 50-55 grains, out to 50 yards. The #11 caps will ignite the Goex Black Powder, FFFg, quite adequately. 70 grains of FFFg should give you a velocity of approx. 1700 fps. That is none-to- shabby a Muzzle velocity, and more than enough to take deer out to 100 yards. Use the .020" patches, and lube, lube, lube. I favor lubing the bore after seating the PRB on the powder, but you can also use a filler, or Over powder wad of your choice to help seal the gases away from the PRB and protect the patching from burning. I am using 20 grains by volume of corn meal for a filler, and it has proven very satsifactory in my .50 cal. rifle. I carry the corn meal in a separate flask, and dump down the barrel after putting the powder charge down the barrel.
 
Pittsburghunter said:
"...90g with .490 Hornaday balls and pillow ticking is what seems to shoot true in all of my "48" twist rifles flint or percussion..."
Hard to argue with actual hands on experience
:thumbsup:
 
I am going to try 90g of 3f in my .54, but my old .50 Deerstalker would only shoot 80g of Pyrodex Rs accuratly, any more and it started to open up big time. I used 80g of 3f Goex in my .54 this year, but would like to flatten trajectory a bit.
 
playfarmers said:
I am going to try 90g of 3f in my .54, but my old .50 Deerstalker would only shoot 80g of Pyrodex Rs accuratly, any more and it started to open up big time. I used 80g of 3f Goex in my .54 this year, but would like to flatten trajectory a bit.
Well, if you haven't already tried using an Oxyoke prelubed wonderwad over the larger powder charges you might consider that...they seem to do as advertised which is to seal better and produce good groups in spite of larger powder charges...at least they have for me in my rifles
 
Paul
How do you come up with your formula for max powder charge? I've loaded centerfire for years and have found that heavy charges don't mean accuracy and dead is dead if hit properly. In the centerfire caliber have to have certain length barrel to perform to its protental.(BP) I have thought max loads were double the cal.. Say 45X2=90 max. Though I have seen black in the snow after a shot.
Sorry if this has been talked to death before. Thanks
 
roundball said:
playfarmers said:
I am going to try 90g of 3f in my .54, but my old .50 Deerstalker would only shoot 80g of Pyrodex Rs accuratly, any more and it started to open up big time. I used 80g of 3f Goex in my .54 this year, but would like to flatten trajectory a bit.
Well, if you haven't already tried using an Oxyoke prelubed wonderwad over the larger powder charges you might consider that...they seem to do as advertised which is to seal better and produce good groups in spite of larger powder charges...at least they have for me in my rifles

I agree, I have been using them for years. I now cut my own with a punch and give them a spray of Balistol and water then let them dry. My Deerstalker would not shoot worth a hoot without them.
 
This has been beaten to death, but to be charitable, for the season, I will repeat: This is a formula that the Late Charles Davenport, an Early and long time member of the NMLRA. Charlie was the Chief of Naval Ordinance during WWI and WWII, in the 20th century. They used and still use black powder to propel large shells in those guns. He would walk down the firing line at Friendship, I am told, asking men the length and caliber of their guns( many still shooting originals) and tell them their maximum powder charge, and then suggest reducing the max. by 10% to find a highly accurate load, and " Sweet spot " for their particular gun. Over the years, men came to rely on him and his advice. This information came from the Late Nathan Merrill, one of the original Founders of the NMLRA, by way of Phil Quaglino, long time barrel maker, and gun builder, and holder of several national rifle and pistol records.

The formula is: 11.5 grains per cubic inch of bore. With any cylinder, you first find the area of the bore, then multiply it times the length of the cylinder. Area is PiR2, where R is the radius, half the diameter of your bore. Squared means you multiply the radius by itself. Pi is 3.1416. You multiply that times the length of your barrel in inches to get the maximum charge your barrel will burn EFFICIENTLY.

This formula has nothing to do with the MAXIMUM charge you can stuff in a barrel. You should already know that most guns can be filled to the muzzle, have a ball pressed down on the powder and fired, without blowing up.

If you will look at loading data in a manual, you will find that for each 10 grains added there is an increasing gain of velocity. However, at the maximum efficient point, the RATE of gain begins to drop off, so you still get some increase in velocity, but the increase becomes less and less the more powder you put in the gun.

In effect, when you shoot more powder than your barrel can efficiently burn, you are wasting money. Not much, but its still a waste. You aren't getting more bang for the buck. You do get more recoil, and more noise, and often more muzzle flash. At some point you will even find you are pushing unburned powder out the muzzle which is falling to the ground in front of you.

Now, do you understand what I have been talking about, compared what it sounds like you are talking about?

If you want to stuff 90 grains of powder in a barrel that will only efficiently burn 75 grains, Have At IT! If you think you are getting a more accurate load, GO FOR IT.

But here's a tip that will save you money: Don't get into a target shooting contest with someone who uses a load that involves a smaller charge of powder: The odds are heavily in his favor that he will win every time.

I hear all the time, here, that someone is increasing their powder charge to " Flatten the trajectory". This, shooting iron sights.

If you compare the trajectory of the lighter load to the heavier powder charge load, the difference in the mid-range arc is measured in tenths of an inch.

I have yet to meet any off-hand shooter using iron sights who can even hold the difference at 100 yards. If you can, by all means, please come to Friendship, and become a National Champion, and then teach all the rest of us how you do it. The Patched Round Ball is just not going to deliver the kind of " Flat " trajectory" you are used to seeing shooting modern guns, with conical bullets, no matter how much more powder you stuff down the barrel.
 

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